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Um. I don't really get what you were trying to say- Do you like the H&R/ Tokico setup or was it too stiff? Or do you like the C8 or is that one too stiff??

Failure14- I'm not sure, but I think he was trying to say that his idle fluctuated as much as 200-400rpm. And Young gun was probably referring to the TPS. You can test your TPS, as per the TSRM. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=100

To get the retainers and valve locks in, some people use the pvc pipe method; That is, you get a piece of pvc pipe that's roughly as large in diameter as the retainer, and you cut a window in the side so you can press down on the spring/ retainer, and then reach the locks to push them into...

I have an Autometer, and as a BIC said, mine sits at 2psi with the engine off. So I know that my boost is actually a bit lower, and my vac is actually a bit higher, than indicated.

1. Make sure that your rod and main bearings are within tolerances, and not loose tolerances. 2. You say it's a 7mge, and not a 7mgte, so no oil squirter bolts to worry about. 3. Replace your oil pump. I suggest a 7mgte oil pump- it's a higher capacity unit than the NA. 4. You can also buy a...

So...does this go on record as the oldest thread resurrection in SM history?

Re-pin was just as discussed. It took literally 2 minutes to swap the pins, and the dimmer works perfectly. What wasn't mentioned is which pin is #1,2,3 and 4. Looking at the harness plug open end with the plug's lock 'latch' on top, they are: 1 2 3 4 Easy swap, thanks guys.

Lol! great.... I just got my dimmer in today, and about to de-pin the harness. I will post my results.

I like that, Cajun- Is it just regular paint?

Well, it took 22+ years for the oem to blow, so....not bad.

True- E code means ECE approved, which is for the other side of the pond.

The E-codes use H-4 bulbs, so they can actually be one in the same. The E-code housing provides the proper(and legal) light pattern for the US. http://www.classicgarage.com/hel20rech4he.html But I went cheap, and bought these: http://store.classicgarage.com/withbulbshield.html They're still...

Thanks again Jeff. I'm expecting a 90+ dimmer in the mail on Monday. Hopefully, I'll be able to report good news then. :icon_bigg

I've never hit FC in first gear. I think that with more load in second gear, you get more airflow thru the AFM, and you're boosting in 2nd longer than first. Dunno if I explained that quite right.

Ummm... Adampecush had commented on Dumbo's picture of his relocation, saying he shouldn't use a stainless line right next to the alternator. THAT'S what it had to do with this thread- So it really wasn't such a "noob" queastion, since someone else had already brought it up.

It's the CPS!!!! Just kidding. Actually, it wouldn't hurt to try jiggling the wires coming out of the cps if they're a bit crispy with age, they sometimes loose contact. But it does sound like an IC hose is completely loose or something.

Yeah, you can't come up in here, and just say- "Once upon a time, they all lived happily ever after- Yayyy!!!" It just doesn't make for a good story. Where's the plot? Where's the character development? The internal struggle with right and wrong?

Ok, I hope one of you guys can sort it out and post a definitive summary on this.

What he said. Check the 'big' fuses in the engine compartment, including the fusible link- the black looped-looking wire. Make sure it's not melted, or crispy.

I love 'happy endings'... I swear- every time I read a thread title that says ..."rebuild, but won't start"...I just wanna post CPS!, without even reading it, because it seems like it's the culprit 99% of the time. :-)