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I like the first one, too, but would it be possible to render it with a lip that extends forward maybe an inch? Like a Kaminari, but not as large.

yes, in post #3. Make sure the caliper is not seized on that side, and that the pads are seated in the caliper properly. Happened to me once, and the rotor started glowing. Didn't pull much to the side, though.

Hells yeah. and in red, too.

You want an mcd that is actually lower than most that are sold. Having said that, Some of the ones sold at Radio Shack are actually too weak, like 10mcd. You want about ~400-1,000 mcd for the led's, in my opinion. Most on Ebay are in the 4,000 to 15,000 range and will totally blind you. You...

Same here, and you'll NEVER get the right led's at Radio Shack. They only have like two T-1's in stock, and they'll be the wrong luminosity. Go Hong Kong or Mouser electronics. PS- T-1 3/4's are the wrong size.

Don't feel bad- I drove up there for a bumper that I didn't get. ; )

I plan to be there again, but won't be embarrassing myself on the track again. :: no ::

I love saying this like it's my turrete's: It's the CPS! It's off one tooth! : ) I know it could be other things, but this is the most common problem in my experience with a new no-start.

Yes- T-1's are the proper size.

If you're doing course racing, you want coilovers anyway, i think.

Yeah, it takes a good 2+ hrs to replace all led's, remove the green display lens, and solder in a new mount for the display. Tools required/ suggested: jewler's screwdriver set dental-type picks soldering iron and solder desoldering iron or solder whick magnifying glass or glasses...

biatch-slap that buddy of yours. : )

Super-looking car, man. Not a fan of those wheels, though. My dream wheels for the understated, OEM look would be some 17x8 BBS mesh rims in bright silver, considering the car's paint color. It'd be tits. : ) But a cheaper(AND oem) route would obviously be Mk IV TT rims.

Yeah, I have a feeling that the only real fix is to find a way to close the gap between inner and out shells. The two halves just seem to widen up from time and pressure. I think the regulator is a source of looseness as well, but not a complete cure. My windows never actually rattle, because...

I just replaced my early gte cracked manifold with an uncracked early manifold. And yes, the crack was in the exact same location as yours.

Regardless of it's peak potential, I think a 57 trim will be my choice, given my more modest power goals. However, later on if my desire grows to 500hp, maybe i'll be interested in CX's T61, version 2.0 : )

Question- to anyone reading; Will the W58 speedo drive gear fit the R154? If so, this should be an easy fix. And no- you dont have to swap clusters. Did you get your tach modified to work yet?

I like your gripe list, Zazzn, and appreciate the initiative. And like I said- I'd be more inclined towards this turbo if it was more plug&play. For now i'll aim for a 57 trim.

I've seen lots of BOV's mounted out front near the IC, exposed to the elements. I think if you mount yours behind the fender liner, it'll be better still.

yeah, but all 4 of his bulbs? And he hit a hole, not a pole. : ) Use a test light to determine where the electrical flow is stopping- befoer the fuse, after it, before the failure box, after it, etc.