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i have confirmed..........my armpits smell good thing for smelly stuff to mask it before i go out to the bars

The pressure drop through all those pipes, bends and clamps/couplers must be rather large....

supply and demand fellas........its a fact it will increase in value with time....

oh its definately leaking, feel quite a bit of air coming from the front of it (opposite side of where the vacuum nipple is)

NO DO NOT ADJUST THE TPS BASED ON ZT2! The reason its showing that is because it won't automatically adjust to your specific TPS voltage output like an SAFCII would. Personally i think they need to change this in the software but its not a big deal. The TPS output helps more as a reference...

I don't know for sure if its leaking at an idle, i don't really know how to test for that, i said its possible its related to my high idle because it might be leaking at an idle, but it might not be too. You seem to know quite a bit about these. Have you ever taken one apart?

I've been trying to figure out exactly how SAFC stores Hi and Lo throttle adjustments in its memory. When you set NEpoints its allows you to adjust the % at that point and adjusts the points around it, for instance: Assume Lo-throttle set @30% If your first NEpoint is 2800RPM, and...

the three that were leaking air seemed to rotate much more easily than the three that didn't. I retorqued the bolt for the fuel rail located closest to cylander six to 13ft-lbs. wasn't really loose unfortunately Today after my 12v fuel mod last night i realized the fuel dampener had been...

you need to calm down. I've installed injectors before. Several insulators all in a row (4, 5 and 6) dont just go bad after a few thousand miles on them, why would it not be possible the fuel rail was a bit loose? I see no harm in checking. Not only that, reguardless of what the suggestion is...

any "how to" on this at all or is it pretty self explanatory?

awesome suggestion helped diagnose things Got everything right now...proved to be a bad ground /thread

yes but i don't think as easily as they do

So i've attempted the 12V fuel mod based on these posts: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62343 http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9417 Felt it was pretty much idiot proof....with all the pics and diagrams available....nope :biglaugh: What i did...

only the leaky ones which could mean its loose. Currently i'm having an issue with the 12v fuel mod thats needs priority to have a running car.

it seems to be the insulators as you say, funny part is i did a boost leak check about 600 miles ago and no leaks in either of these places...now all of a sudden they are spewing air :nono: I will check to make sure the fuel rail is tight as this could definately be the cause.

no bolt/nut so i asume its new style. I just looked in at the seal with a light and mirror, didn't see anything obvious preventing the seal...

please explain

seems as though i'm leak rather steadily out of my HKS SSQV. Not out of the vacum nipple but the front of it where it vents. Not only that but i'm leaking out of my injectors :aigo::aigo: after only 6k miles i wouldn't expect this from either areas. Safe to assume the o rings are bad on...

I've been doing some reading and never knew head bolts should be retorqued early into the break in period. Its been 6+K miles since my rebuild with new ARP (at the time of rebuild) everything. Is it a good idea to retorque after so many miles? I'm not positive what kind it is but all i know is...

I've never used one but from what i understand of them, i don't see how they could make much of a difference. From how i understand it The main goal is to scrape of excess oil and prevent the 'tornado effects' of the oil in the block providing less rotational mass. But i also have read...