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We'll learn ya to be a Supe mech-can-nic. Get yourself a repair manual, it helps a lot if you have something in front of you to read and look at. If you don't understand something or it's not clear in the manual, somebody on here will be able to help. Like suprerxnut said, good job trying and...

Pretty much works on most cars, you want to be in that power band when you are ready to exit the corner. I could see why it would be more useful with a turbo.

I just noticed a lean spike free-reving to around 4k rpm. Around 16AFR. Under normal driving AFR's are normal around that RPM. Maft-Pro SD/ LM-1 O-2. Is there some other adjustment I'm missing?

Slow in fast out right?

You should be downshifting BEFORE you get to a corner not when you are in the turn, "slow in fast out".

So were we at on this? Yes, no, maybe.

The only thing that concerns me is getting dirt soforth in the sealing surface for the plugs and not getting a good seal. Oil would burn off in the cyl. but you wouldn't want dirt, bugs and shit down in the cyl. That's why I try to get as much as I can out and after that wipe the sealing surface...

Everybody wants some pretty cool stuff on this thread, including me. But I was always told "want in one hand, and shit in the other and see which gets full first".

If they are reground cams, it would be hard to tell wouldn't it? Mine are regrounds, and I can't tell other than measuring the lobe height. It's easy enought to do with a set of mics. and compare it with the specs. They should be 1.4961 in. Journal diameter should be no.1` 1.0610 to 1.0616...

A dab of sealant in the sharp right angle of the seals on the front of the motor were it sits on the cam caps.

Drain tube for the AC condensor, or vent tube from the charcoal canistor?

The CSI still could be your problem. If it is stuck in the open position then it would always squirt a extra amount of fuel, the way I understand it. Have you checked the timing?

Now quit looking that shit up for these guys Cuel:biglaugh:

The response is quick now, But with ITB's :naughty:

Kind of depends on how tore up the old one's are. I was able to use my original stock ones a couple of times, but the ones I got from a complete gasket set sucked, the rubber seal on them tore with one time usage. I guess if you have to use them see what happens if they are in decient shape.

What if you have removed the canister and don't vent the cap?

Chevron.

Yes. line up your cam gears your #1 TDC, your crank on the 0 and then check your rotor and make sure it's one the #1 wire. After it starts, should after all is lined up, then time it with a timing light, remember to jumper TE1 and E1 in the Dianostic box.

Check out the NA section for the ITB's

NA with Maft-Pro SD. Or NA with ITB's. Flycut crank helps, knocked 5 lbs of weight off mine.