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Amen x 10!!! I've never had these problems and my auto tranny sucks balls!:runaway:

All I wanna know is are these civics you're losing to Si? They better be, cuz that's the only way I can believe this, methinks.:biglaugh:

I had the same problemon my N/A tranny, and after I pulled it out, I found that my tranny plug wires were cut. I'd suggest checking the terminal connections, and maybe the solenoids. I can't find the terminal diagram right now, but I'm pretty certain I found it on the TSRM online. Check on there...

YESSSSS!!!!! New title!:boobies: :boink: ::w00t::

:icon_bigg Thanks that clears up that idea a good bit. I think the main problems for mine were that : 1. The inner contact area on the rotor was worn and had a circle divot in it. 2. The main terminal connection between the igniter coil and wire was pretty dirty. I had these symptoms once...

I'm running mine in 105-110degree weather, and so far I've never needed a oil that heavy. The premium blue is 15w-40, and I haven't had any wear problems with it. For Phoenix, 5w-50 seems like it would be too light of an oil for the temperature. (I used to live in Tempe). Out there, at higher...

Alright, I replaced the rotor, it had a circular divot in it, then I took apart the afm and cleaned out the connections and resoldered them. I also cleaned the connections on the spark plug wires and the ignition coil. I secured the Bvsv hose with a zip tie to make sure it didn't go anywhere...

and for heavier oil, you can try some valvoline premium blue. It's for deisel, but it's worked great for me and my bro. Now if only I get my N/A's electical system on the same page of quality...

Ok, I have time to check on my car today, and so far, I've found that according to the manual, e2-Vs should be between 20-100 ohms, and mine is reading around 318ohms. I tested both e2 terminals with Vs and got the same reading on each. e2-Vc is still within the range of 100-300ohms, it's at...

Haha, You called me sport, lol.:wiggle: I'm looking through the online TSRM right now, my Haynes manual isn't too informative now that I've weeded out it's suggested solutions. It could be just something simple, like I've ran out of gas. My FSU busted so I can never completely tell. I'm gonna...

Well I haven't had the time to buy any parts since friday (the day it died) and my spark would have to be really weak to need ether in 100 degree weather. :umno: That's an easy statment to make, seeing as the reason for it not maintaining an idle can have multiple causes, and to name a few...

So how then would it be able to be checked if the engine doesn't make it past one revolution?:stickpoke

:wiggle: Job placement... it's complicated!:runaway: My crappy ohm meter says the isc has no resistance, not even the spec min of 10ohms. I gotta wait until my brother wakes up to use the good one. Also bits of the distributor rotor look worn, so I'll replace that tomorrow and see how it goes.

1. All the cyclinders are at 198-201. 2. All the vacuum tubes are fine. 3. You can't check the timing if the engine isn't running.:3d_frown: 4. I didn't have time today to check it. 5. Again, that's impossible. 6. All 1mo old NGK copper cores, and gapped correctly. 7. The cap and plugs...

I'm going to check the fuse panel but I didn't see any blown when I looked the last time. The way it dies is like the way the it does when the AFM is dead or d/c but I still get no codes. The EFI fuse was still good when we checked it the first time but as I said I'm going to go look again. I...

It's a little random, but it cranks, fires and then dies. Sorry I forgot to mention that. I kinda think it's the alternator wire connection problem, I unwrapped it, and there was a lot of calcium/lime on the wires. I know the spark plugs work fine, right now it seems that it's a problem with the...

:1zhelp: I can't get my 7m to turn over after cranking. I've checked in diagnostic mode, and I'm getting no codes. I've recharged and refilled the battery, switched the AFM, checked the spark plugs/wires changed the battery terminals, reset the timing, and tested both the battery and the...

All you really need to do it is a timing light and a 12mm wrench

:eek: :runaway: :puke: That's one butt ugly POS engine! And only 160hp? That's as useless as the RR Discovery and its whopping 198hp V8!:blah: Sorry that was way off-topic.

How much did all that run you?