Another thing to think about is having a dry sump vs a wet sump, and the diameter of the flywheel/clutch.
Having a small racing 6" clutch and flywheel would rev much faster than stock....
/Thread.
You didn't change any thing inside that turbo.
I call BS, HUGE BS.
How did you get the exhaust housing off?
Did you balance the turbine wheel & shaft assembly?
Did you go carbon or dynamic seal?
What did you clearence your bearings at?
Can any one explain to me why its 100% nessesary to actually "dial in" or have a ISP?
Why is it that your computer litterally can't surf the net? Ive never had this explained to me...
They are attracted to moisture and darkness. :-)
Use some perimeter (sp?) bug spray, and leave the lights on. Get some moisture absorbing silica (like you find in shoes when they are new) and see what happens.
If you want a good entry level (it actually is my main welder in my shop as it is fully digital) TIG Welder, check out the miller 180 or 200sd. Fully digital, and they are plenty capable of doing what ever you have in your garage.
They will struggle with 1/2" aluminum....
Possibly. That hole is where a drill has gone to far. The GT40 series turbos use a backplate that is held on by screws UNDER the compressor wheel.
That hole you see is from one of those screws. It may be possible that oil is seeping past that screw and out....
I have a couple more of these that just popped up guys. They are the Gt40 (NOT THE 42) frame turbos.
Option one: It will be a 1.00 a/r t4 footprint GT style exhaust housing. If we go with this housing, the turbine will be the smaller GT35 or GT37.
Choice of compressor wheel:
Either the...
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