what's a smasher? where can i get one?
As the statistics stand, the majourity of fatal accidents are by young drivers, this might be because they have less safety features or are just plain tools...
i think you need to learn the difference between a race track and a sleepy residential...
yeah under the oil cap that lobe is ment to be visible (0 lift)
in 1 engine cycle there is 720deg rotation remember the cam will rotate once per 2 crankshaft cycles,
set it to tdc in the compression cycle, it should be on 0deg at the timing marks
see below
cygnusx is VERY USEFUL...
ok well ive pulled the head off,
my cometic isnt damaged, i found no evidence of a bad blow out, or even where the water was leaking, i did find cyc 5&6 had a thin coat of oil (the rest were dry)
im going to reshim 2 valves aswell, i measure them all and 2 need reshimming...
i was also...
just don't expect the part interpreters to be very useful, I went to one here in Aus, they wouldn't even talk to me without a chassis number..
in the end he sold me the wrong engine mounts for $200aud... so my advice, make sure its the right part...
1986.5- 1988.10 have square mounts (AND...
sell a organ and go to toyota...
you can buy nearly any part still, just be prepared to pay as they come from japan (OVERNIGHT....that takes 3 weeks) lol
sooo? lol i had 250 in my coolant and i was still able to do powerskids and drives fine, just temp gets hot... my 6th cyc is only down 10psi
pull the head off now before you get corrosion on the head/block mate its only going to get worse
Raising 0.5 CR isn't really worth the hassle especially on a 3L motor, for example on my v8(5L) i raised my CR from 8.5:1 to 9.5:1 when i fitted a higher lift/longer duration cam (given it was n/a) it only was worth 7rwkw
if anything you'll have to pull more timing on boost to avoid...
not swapping caps, head and cap look fine, a few small wear marks but no indication of damage but ive seen much worse,
i was talking about replacing the shim, as the shim in bouncing when the cam comes off lift
i had a similar noise, i told my machinist that i thought the cam cap was shagged, he laughed at me and told me to check the clearance between the shim and the cam @ 0 lift, i found a 0.25mm gap (using a feeler gauge)
i pin pointed mine by holding the engine @ 2000rpm while listening with a...
well motors out already :)
i might tear it down tonight,
speaking to a machine shop.
im going to get the block decked, head checked, hone done, ill pick up a rebuild kit from the US and do new rings, pistons, bearings, timing belt.
does this kit look ok...
get a boost gauge with vaccume on it, find out if your problem is electronical or mechanical mate, once you know that then you can sort the issue out,
i had a leaky intake manifold gasket a while back, made it idle shit and blow smoke on boost,
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