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lol, what i dont get is, i had my electronic boost controller sitting there on the seat, my headunit unplugged and soo easy to steal. and they didnt take anything... im wiring up a few precautions now, so that when my car has a motor they wont beable to drive it away, but if someone wants the...

yeah, the alarm didnt work as the battery is not rigged up or is there any wiring in the engine bay. but yeah i think it was pretty funny, they could have easily gone for my missus old shitty EB ford (i wish they would have, its insured for 4x as much as its worth)

Friday night someone attempted to steal my supra, behind a locked gate, they broke the locks and gained access to the car, then broke into the car before realizing that my supra currently has no motor... thankfully otherwise my pride and joy would be gone!!!

mine was converted to W58 aswell, from memory the reverse light needs to be adapted and the loom extended, front half of the tail shaft is shorter, transmission mount, 225mm flywheel, 225mm clutch (240mm is R154) you'll need the hydraullic clutch gear, just use some common sense when...

whats wrong with getting the crack properly welded up and then retapped... its never going to be good as new but still assembly costs arnt cheap, you may aswell throw your money in the bin otherwise... did you over tighten the bolt? i dont think its supposed to be done up super tight

you can deck it with the valves in or out... its your choice... only cams must be removed...

i found its a easy job with 2 people, me and my mate ripped mine out easily... you need a bloke rolling the car back/draging the crane back while the other guy stands in the engine bay holding the trans extension housing off the rad support...

why not just run a analog output from the wideband to the ecu? and good :)

i noticed on my 6m crank block it has no oil squirters...where as my 7m block did, both 7mgte's.... intresting... the 6m cranked block i have is no 1173 built.... where as my 7m crank is 123,343 or something.. maybe it was a early block before they decided to do any squirters????

isnt the o2 a narrow band??? if so why are you trying to tune with it???

bingo :P

no... 7m-ge uses a W58, its a 225mm flywheel push clutch 7m-gte uses a R154, its a 240mm flywheel pull type clutch ive got a W58 behind my 7mgte, using a 225mm flywheel and it bolts up fine... (it was converted to manual before i got it, i wish they would have used the R154)

no offence but, NO... i've built a N/A cars and i know from experience, there is no replacement for displacement, (boost is extra displacement) once an engine has reached %100 volumetric efficiency you cannot do much to surpass this... unless you add more displacement, sure you can make it...

ive seen a few 7m manifolds cut and welded to be front facing, ive got a spare manifold, i might cut it open and see if its possible, i think these run 17" runners. i just want to clean up the bay a bit and cut like 1.5M off my i/c piping... unless anyone knows of a 1jz manifold going cheap...

that blows Casey, hope ya find a new job soon! fyi does anyone know where i can find a 7m intake manifold locally? (1jz/2jz style front facing)

more than likely if your rings are worn you will have excess blowby and it will force oil into your "accordian" pipe take that off and check for oil leading from the crankcase breather...

i asked my engine builder weather i should use the 6m crank out of my pre 89 block or the crank out of my 89+ block, he said use the 7m crank as toyota just put more counterweights in for a good reason,

don't forget to deck the block you need the pistons out.... which you may put new rings and bearings in if your going that far... this is where i'm at currently

its hard to tell when you dont post a link :P

could be blowby, i had this and the crank case pressure was forcing all my oil into the breather and into the intake... i thought my turbo was screwed till i checked it all out, i have 0 shaftplay, btw a little radial shaft play is normal as when it spools up it stays centralised (because its...