well it was power steering :) turned it to full lock a few times and topped it up and it went away :) cars running perfect! i was just paranoid on the first startup :P
could be, i topped it up with fluid but didnt bleed it yet (should be a self bleeding system)
ill find this out when i drop the belts :) thanks for the input
YouTube - Rebuilt 7mgte first start rattle... :(
Anyone got any idea's? im not running aircon and i removed the pulley so the outter timing cover is being held in with 3x 10mm bolts, this is what i think it may be, dosnt sound bearing related but im not sure..
the motors a 7m crank Fullly...
Is this a 7m? im going to assume it is..
this is how i wired mine up
(front front to back)
G-B-G-B-G-B
havnt started it yet so i could be wrong.
i cant remember if they're batch injection or sequential. if they're batch then it really doesn't matter.
i waited for a gap in the rain (last night)
and dropped my new motor in :P still im not getting under the car until the rain goes away!
its pretty much winter, what can you expect :P
deoderant can :)
or carby cleaner, spray near manifold and listen for rpm increase, its how i found my leak...
on my new motor i just took the time to coat all the paper gaskets in high temp silicon to fill in any small imperfections to avoid this in the future.
obviously something got botched up....
soda bottle test i think is sticking a full bottle of water in a 2L bottle of coke and turning it upside down so that the opening is in the radiator cap, start the car and watch for bubbles.
Hydrocarbon test is much more conclusive, tests for combustion...
its more of a dirt cover, i removed mine when i did my headgasket, there are 4 plugs which seal some oil passages in the head so if you have blow by chances are its pushing oil out there or via the rocker covers
no engine lights? does it blow smoke when this happens?
could be 1 of 2 things (i doubt bov)
boost leak (metered air is being vented)
detonation sensor
boost leak is when metered air escapes and is not ignited which increases the air fuel ratio and runs like shit because the mixtures are all...
to be honest id say we fall outside the effected area, all local cars produced her are not fitted with coolant that passes through throttles. IJ lives in the same part of Aus as me, maybe he'd know!
this is a weekender anyway so chances are if it was cold enough that ice is forming id rather be...
i come from the land down under :) it never snows anywhere except on a mountian's here,
Lowest it gets is 5deg celcius and this isnt a daily driver anyway only a weekender so usual temp is 17-25deg C
should give me less heat soak in the throttle at least :)
cheers for that!
hydrocarbon test, if fail replace the head with a oem gasket, run a tap through bolt holes and replace with arp bolts @ 80ft/lb....
fyi i would have pulled the bolts out cleaned the thread, lubed them up checked to see if they went in smoothly.
also i BET you didnt do a 2nd or 3rd pass at the...
Does anyone know what the coolant hoses that pass through the throttle and idle valve do? is it some kind of emission requirement? or maybe to prevent parts from seizing up in extreme cold?
im relocating my throttle body as a front facing manifold and was considering not connecting them up...
also the manual box is longer than the auto,
the rear half of the tail shaft is the same (center bearing to diff)
but the front half is shorter for manual (trans to center bearing)
i compared them next to each other and manual is maybe 15cm shorter...
i was going to say looks like a car bomb, explains the antenna and it looks like a block of C4 next to the unit lol, that'd be kinda cool and scary at the same time...
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