Search results

Try to reset the fuel trim learned values stored by the ECU. Remove the EFI fuse for 15+ seconds. With 550cc injector, the corect housing to use is the Lex one. AFM Sensor from stock housing should be prefered if known to work.

Ha OK thanks, THW on the 7M.

I wasn't aware of the dropdown... Thank you ;)

Good news (I hope). What is Cts please?

Very nice stuff Mieke ;) Where did the heat shield came from? I know the driftmotion one, but only from head to lower pipes.

Good job! Nice gif also :)

Nice job ! Envoyé de mon Nexus 6 en utilisant Tapatalk

Nice gauges ! Envoyé de mon Nexus 6 en utilisant Tapatalk

Thanks for all the contributions ;) I'm with Roger UK here, I rebuilt my engine and the gaz was pumped and the system is empty (well, actually fill with atmospheric air and moisture). I don't know where I can find R12. Whatever, I'm going to do the mod in this thread (well, not going so far...

Many thanks for this writing, years after it is still usefull.. I was looking for some equipment to do that, and find this kit: www.ebay.com/itm/261595707011 So I was thinking about differences between R-12, R-134A, and Duracool 12A, and came to this post (and the last one of the thread)...

Hey Diego, love your plate !

Nice find!

I use an Aristo wheel my mk3, here is what I done with cruise control switches: http://supra-mk3-rr.blogspot.fr/2015/02/retrofit-volant-tiptronic.html The joystick option may be fine on a recaro wheel

I would look at the TPS Idle signal.

Here they are: The rest was about pressure in the system regarding 585Soup statement:

Your bolded statement is true unless you don't have a temperature increase to increase pressure. Pressure in the system shouldn't be the pressure of the cap. Max pressure in the system is the one of the cap.

If the shop push the injectors to much inside the rail, they are leaking. There is no mechanicol stop in the rail for the injector, the o-ring shall be on the cylindrical part of the rail.

I have a 1.3 bar cap. All it changes is that water can be hotter before boiling and be released into steam. No leak problem for thousands miles with the cap. In fact, there is no reason to change, except my stock cap was broken.

^^ This. When my ECU is in limp mode, it has a ratling sound. I feel it like it's due to a slight hydrolock, because it runs piggy rich with minimal timing... If not related to 52 code, considering it is under load and > 2500rpm, it can be something like a bent rod, a bent crankcase, etc...

Interesting thread. I'm installing a carputer. Is the OEM external amplifier (that I don't have) good? I mean, should I source OEM or aftermarket? I don't need an audiophile installation at the moment, just entertainment. My Sup is a targa so I need a good volume level and dynamic sound.