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Sounds like a bare wire somewhere. Something probably rubbed through and you have a direct ground. Vibration going down the road causes it to touch the chasis. Just a possibility.

I missed it where he said it was shifting late. Show me again. Since shift quality is determined by the throttle cable that is the first to check. It requires no real thought or tools. Of course he should check for codes. That is what I said. What should I do? Take pictures of the...

Or his throttle pressure is too high. That is adjustable. If you have recently been on the throttle body, and moved it, that is a possibility. Shift quality isnt affected really by the shift solenoids, only timing. Same with the TPS input. The lock up solenoid is possible, but often the car...

I almost forgot. The bore/stroke power article was about peak power. The bigger bore unshrouds the valves debate. The big bore shorter stroke made no discernible power differnce to the smaller bore longer stroke.

Stock it is definetly quicker than you. With the exhaust mods and boost controll, you could take him.

It is supposed to shift harder at WOT. What do you have to compare it too harshness wise?

So one of those hillbilly performance magazines decided to test the bore/stroke debate. Two engines, everything the same but bore and stroke. They had to make some consessions do to the obvious things like rod ratio. I think it was popular hotrodding. Anyway, in a nut shell, there was no notable...

I love unmolested originals.

Ive seen the cold start injector bleed down into the intake. Putting the acclerator to the floor and how quick it starts would be an indicator.

Actually plastic has an R value of about zero. It insulates nothing. I think it is zero anyway.

Unless there was a previous unknown problem, Id guess it isnt hooked up right somehow. Assuming you have it full. Disconnect the supply line at the rack and start the engine. If it doesnt pump out, you are restricted. Most pumps dont die, but they can.

They have all been daily drivers up to this one. The Supra is meant to be driven.

Thanks. I looked for an extra clean car and unmolested. It does have an external blemish that I will erase in time. The rest of the car was too good to pass up. I bought it with 119k, and it has 121k now. No need to fix anything on ISC pipes. There are extra clamps on many pipes. Not sure why...

My daily driver.

13.5 in a heavy ass car with a slipping clutch is always good.

Very nice set up and execution. Get it full speed soon so you can hit the dyno and 7Mpower.

So for those that have removed the injector(pulsation) damper, what are the ways to counter the gaps in pressure? Is the stock pump up to the task, or is that AFPR as mentioned above the minimum needed with an upgraded pump?

Why does the "6M" cranked 7MGE have the lower redline?

I dont know what you used to try and jump it with, but low buck cables are usually thin, and dont flow as much amps. So the discharged battery will not jump. Check those things he said to check too.

That is just awsome. No they dont. 400 in a street car is ton, even pulling 3600 lbs.