If you have cooling problem with a new fan clutch, not a worn one, you could have a radiator that is ineffective also.
Does it cool down with highway speed?
On a continued note, if you are really are a trailer queen, and don't really drive it on the highway or to work, FFIM is just fine. If all your time is from 4000RPM up, then go for it. Because if you don't, you are leaving some on the table.
A little bird on a wire mentioned to me that the aftermarket rings need adjustment. You probably had to file them.
Any lube you put on the cylinder wall will be scraped off by that bottom ring, that is correct. There will be a small amount left in the hatch mark, by design. The oil squirter...
I think your build is great. I like the detail of the engine also. Clean is where it is at.
I want to use your dyno for a demonstration if you don't mind too much. That front facing manifold has shorter runners, and very large plenum. That really helps his top end pull. But it also sacrficies...
The gap is probably ok *if* the machine shop did a proper bore, and you don't have a taper problem.
You put the ring in the bore and push it down with the piston upside down and check the gap between the ends with a feeler gauge. Before assembly.
A new stock fan clutch works better than fans. A worn fan clutch that spins freely does not move much air.
I don't know what all you have or don't have, but everything was put on the car by Toyota for a reason.
Make sure you have the undercover, working fan clutch, thermostat, 50/50, fan...
Over oiling the K&N, cleaning it, and running with out the filter are common reasons for it to fail.
I haven't seen any older Toyota air flow meters fail on their own(doesn't mean they don't). The most common was the newer hot wire mass air flow sensor that was contaminated. That style is...
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