I was going to suggest probing the plug and turning the heat to 85 and see if the signal is put out.
Take a look at the pins. Sometimes they get messed up, just a tiny bit, and loose continuity. Not that the unit is easy to pull...
I had to dig through the vault. This is when I bought it back in 05. Sorry about the wheel being upside down. I didn't have you in mind when I took it. :)
So you have spent 1000 of the 1500 and don't even have a manifold yet. Treadstone makes a replica of the HKS original for a decent price. Have you seen it yet?
The Cartech is 700, and they will make it T3 or T4. If they still are willing to do it.
Or are you going to buy a china special...
Because they are getting power and ground when the key is on.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=144
And the page before. Do you have the EWD for your year?
What do you think is cost effective? I think 542 rwhp under $2000 for everything is pretty good. Similar turbos are about that much for just the turbo. Seems like the TDO6 kit was based around 2100, as opposed to base at 1500.
Just for refrence, a Boss stage 5 with 67mm, which is what he said...
So get rid of the car. That is what I did when I was in my early 20's. I had the car for 3 years, but it didnt' match the budget of a 24 year old. So I got a 5.0 Mustang. Not really the same kind of car, or even close. But I went fast, which is what so many of you want, and I did it cheaply. Now...
I guess the engineers failed, because they tried like hell to avoid all of that.
That about covers it Dow. Understated greatness. I liked that nobody noticed it, and when they did, didn't know what it was. Until that stupid ass movie.
A medium sized Boss did 540 rwhp on stock internals. No head work. Their bigger turbos will obviously do more with supporting mods.
I don't know anybody that went from a Boss to a t3/t4. That is going backwards. Then again, maybe people here do do that. The T3 exhaust housing is kind of...
No it doesn't. It runs insanely rich on any car where the owner cranked the screw, installed a pump, and didn't bypass the j-tube. It won't run any richer with the larger meter and appropriate injectors.
Why do you want to jump it?
Does it click when you test it electrically? Does it close when tested with a meter? Does the relay have power to the control side and operational side?
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=47
Shortcutting certainly takes less...
Well, there sure aren't any shift kits. Shifting is electronic.
HKS used to sell upgrades for about $2500. That was more than a decade ago. Now IPT builds them. Other trans builders do also, such as Level 10 or ATI, but you will probably need to have it done custom. Give them a call and see...
jdub already answered. Amazing amount of BS people post. Better idle. Get real.
It is an old mechanic trick to use it as an engine flush. Run it for a few minutes without loading the engine, and then drain. Yes, it has detergent, but isn't the best for engine sludge. And on top of that...
You can turn the compressor by hand, it will be difficult. This is different than that free spinning part. In fact, when you install a new compressor, after filling with oil, you have to turn it by hand with grunt to circulate oil.
If the compressor doesn't come filled that is.
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