If you lubed the rings when assembling, it will take time.
You can put a vacuum gauge on your car and test. Bring the speed up to 3000 or so, then let it snap closed. It hould jump to nearly 30. If it can't, that is the problem.
No intercooler? An intercooler is the charge air cooler that goes between the compound blowers for the not as well informed. Automotive intercoolers are really "charge air coolers", bu the name "intercooler" stuck.
Have you attempted to measure temps going in? Not that you have the space for...
9.2:1 isn't exactly high compression. I would think it easier to just swap the whole engine, but I guess sometimes if the GE engine is ready to go, then I understand adding the blower. Here is one for you from back in the day.
http://www.supramania.com/images/hosted/nickm/Cartech%207MGE1.jpg...
Then there is a problem with the oil control rings. It is that or the hone. Do you understand the negative pressure when the throttle closes? Pressure tries to equalize. If the air can't come through the throttle, it will try and pull elsewhere.
The very high vacuum from decel is "sucking" the oil in the chamber from the pan past the incorrectly assembled(or defective parst) shortblock. The turbo can leak that way also, but I will take his word about rebuilt and checked.
Today I did unnecessary maintance that is an upgrade. I changed out the Halogen headlamps for a new super white bright light. And suprisingly, it was actually whiter while not being a tinted light like the gay blue ones. I am not sure how they do it, other than it isn't a standard incandesent...
Sequential engines only fire the injector in the firing order. Batch fires in groups of two or more. The injector fires when the intake valve is closed. And again when it opens.
The computer energizes the relay when it has the correct signals. And you are right, the relay could be dead. It is in the right kick panel. Get the EWD so you can see the right one. And then you can check to see if the ECU is energizing it when cranking.
If you unplug the airflow meter, the car will still run. It won't run better, the airflow meter is a primary input, not a correction factor where a known good value can be substitued. It won't run better if you unplug it. If you have the means, you can check the Hz output of the meter. About 30...
It could. You check it by having an oxygen sensor behind it. If the voltage switches like the front sensor, the cat is no working. This is how OBD II cars know whether or not you have a cat in place that works.
Stock airflow meter and injectors? No performance mods? If you have a slight...
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