The car doesn't have a MAF sensor. The air flow meter on it is a Karman Vortex meter. It has an LED, a mirror and a photocoupler. Those three optic parts don't work right with stuff sprayed on them. The vortex generator creates a swirl, and that causes the mirror to vibrate proportionaly with...
I wasn't trying to bash you. You would know if I was. Mike has given me warnings about not abusing members. You will know when you are receiving fire. I read both of your threads, I know what you said.
You should make sure the bolts are tight, as 58lb/ft does not put it in the elastic region. And for the record, the bolt is supposed to stretch. That is the clamping force.
Your older unit probably was rusted through the resonator making the straight through muffler loud. That is an assumption of course. Was it always loud for you? They aren't now.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rTS6GjHy81k&list=UUrXRwHaHYc2yfzdf9aX2AEA&index=5&feature=plcp
He probably did things to his car besides that. Like the poster the other day that said at operating temps the car stalls. And started a different thread saying what should he do with his ISCV that is disconnected and leaking metered air.
I understand. Very much so. I had a very large (for naturally aspirated) BBK pump in my 5.0 a long time ago. I redid all I could. EEC IV didn't have "circuit opening relay" or two speed. On top of that, Motorcraft electric motors don't last as long as NipponDenso. As far as I can tell.
That spring is a primary culprit of your bouncing speedo needle. If you didn't know. If it bounces all the time, cable. If it bounces when you start off and smoothes out, it is the wound spring.
I want the Cartech unit for a few reasons, one it is the best unit. Highest effeciency, best flow. The other is the mounts in the picture are the same as stock. So I was thinking it *should* go right in. Thanks for the pics, they are appreciated.
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