I did a write-it on separating the lenses here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38545
I used hot glue and some chunks of plastic to mount the boards.
Randy has finished the fenders and I just finished the LED tails and foaming of the framerails. Randy has been so busy making exhausts for you guys and my project is getting delayed! Despite that, the man's bodywork is flawless! The additional support and bracing of these exteneded fenders is...
Cool. For those who want to try to build their own, I do recommend signing up at http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/ for info and help, and maybe get an extra set of tails to work on in your spare time.
I think the hardest part would be getting all the paint off that center peice and have it clear and flawless. Any scratches or paint left would really show.
garagefujimoto: if it didn't consume 100% of my spare time, I might make more, but I'm hoping to never do it again :)
That diagram was an approximation mainly on the switching curcuit. I did actually run 5 led's with a 27ohm resister in each array. This runs the red LED's at 40ma instead of their rated 70ma, since I knew they would be too bright.
Currently, the brake lights are too bright, and I'm hoping a good solid tinting will get them closer to the OEM brightness of newer LED car. I believe these LED's are the ones many new cars are getting away with using 20-50. I'm running 280! If they are still too bright after tinting, I will...
Yes, I cut, painted, glued, and soldered all the PC boards by hand, from larger 6x9" pieces. All the LED's, resistors, and wiring was bought in bulk. The boards are flat, I made 3 separate boards to follow the curve.
This took so long, I lost track of the hours. Probably well over 50, since I made a few errors as well as design changes while working, and was starting everything from scratch. Definately an evening hobby. I won't be making any more, sorry!
My car is undergoing a widebody build by Randy at...
Cost: a few hundred bucks in parts, dozens and dozens of hours of research and tedious labor.
All LED's except for the reverse are 70ma superflux LED's from future electronics. All circuits are regulated at 12 volts and the marker lights are dimmed with a PWM (pulse-width modulator) circuit...
I was at my auto parts store today to buy some replacemeny tranny fluid. I was annoyed that all of the brands of synthetic had LSD additives in it. They did not sell red line so I my only choice was havoline standard gear fluid 80-90.
No, I just pulled the material and squished the foam as much as possible. That might be a good idea to get someone to help. If you can compress the foam, it should get you the slack you need.
I installed ones from leatherseats.com, and they were insanely tight. I used my hands to stretch it and eventually was able to zip it up. Maybe yours are tighter, but you'll probably have to just keep working at it?
On targa Mk3's there is a thick metal flange/tab that fits into a hole in the door jamb near the latch/striker. I think that once the door hinges wear a bit and get some play, this type of chassis reinforcement goes out the window. Can you buy new door hinges from Toyota? It might help a lot.
I figure that most of the flex happens in the rocker panels, between the two halves of the car when the targa is out. Ironically, the JDM Mk3 that was in Randy's shop at the time already had it's rockers filled with foam.
Randy and I did this today. It'll be a few weeks before the car is driven, so I'll report the ride quality results then. We used 8lb density urethane pour foam from US Composites.
Randy cutting a hole in the rocker panels so I could prep the inner surfaces:
I bought a steel wire chimney...
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