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Set the rotor on the dizzy so it points at number one plug tower on the cap. If need be place the cap on the dizzy to get an idea where that should be. What you want to end up with is the engine at TDC (or close) on the compression stroke with the rotor at the number one plug tower in the cap...

Yes, your looking for TDC on the compression stroke right? Turn it to 0 with your thumb on the hole. You'll know when you're on the compression stroke. If you want you can even drop a pencil or a rod in the hole and "peak" it while rocking the crank but that shouldn't be needed. When your thumb...

Your finger or the engine? ;). Put your thumb in #1 plug hole and bring the timing mark to 0TDC. You'll either be there or you'll have to turn it again. Or use a condom or balloon.. Course, with two kids you prolly don't have any condoms handy ;). You could always take the valve cover off. You...

Compression tool? Put your finger in the plug hole.

[/quote] i wanna go to chernobyl one day, its on the list of places to visit, very strange and magical place. More sad than magical but the zone today is a beautful place from a nature standpoint.You can take one of the normal 4 hour tours offered these days. They're safe but you can't wander...

Probably because there is electricity going to it ;). Did you check the ABS codes?

Well, it's gonna be tough for you to troubleshoot this without the car's schematics but the fuel pump thing is simple: open the diagnostic block located near the battery and jumper FP to +B. To check codes jumper T to E1.

Lol, he sure does. A serious brain fart. With all the injector posts I've been doing lately I really screwed the pooch on this one. Gotta slow down and actually read the stuff. Thanks go out to figgie for being gentle ;)

Does it start and run when you hold the throttle crack? If so it is, as IJ pointed out, an ISC problem. As for the TPS, the IDL contacts on it must be closed for the ISC system to work. Either measure them or jumper the diag block and crack the throttle. You should get an idle code when the...

Yep, it appears he has no injection. Since he has spark the CPS is probably OK so I'd be looking at the injection power circuit. Fusible link AM2, the resistor pack, and wiring. Could be a bad ecu or the ING2 section of the ignition switch but I seriously doubt it. Might want to also try jumping...

What shaeff said. The resistor pack is there to limit the current to the injectors. It's needed because the injector coils are low "impedance" (an incorrect term btw). Without the resistor pack the coils in the injectors would fry in short order. Since the injectors are supplied with 12 volts...

Here's me on top of the hotel in the dead city of Pripyat, Ukraine. The Chernobyl nuclear power station is in the background.

I was wondering where that 140 t0 180 ohms was coming from as that's mighty high for a primary winding. Shouldn't be that high even when hot. This is where a low ohms function comes in handy but cheaper meters don't have them. Lucky you have a 2000 count meter (most are higher) so in this case...

Hey, stop tryin' to make me feel bad....cuz it's workin' ;). Ask if you need anything else and I'll help out best I know how.

Gracias Amigo. I don't mind helping out but I'm somewhat adverse to people who'd rather die than think. I'm working a half dozen forums tonight, everything from aircraft maintenance to precision welding to air conditioning, so perhaps I'm a bit short on patience. I'm sure Jspec is a fine fellow...

Good for you. 38 seconds? Imagine that. One article is wrong though. The test mentioned above is valid. Just shows what more than 38 seconds can do. Btw, no porn was involved in the making of this post ;)

You're doing something wrong with your meter. Are you sure the range is set to 200? Use the lowest range you can and still be within what the coil spec says. Get into the habit of shorting your meter's leads together anytime you set it to ohms to check for zero or close to it. And use the delta...

Easy there big fella. My point was everything you need to know is either in the manual or online. Do you have the manual? If so are you able to follow it's instructions? Can you Google "testing oxygen sensors" and follow what you find there? Or did you have some other form of "learning" in...

I'm not saying it couldn't be the sensor, it's just that in my experience 90% of O2 sensors are needlessly replaced. Why swap out such an expensive part as the stock sensor (or any sensor) without checking it? How to test it in the car? Use the procedure in the TSRM. You can also do it a...

It's a vent. Supposed to go thru a grommet in the fender.