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Joel and Bishop did a great job here. Yes, that's how it's supposed to work. It was clear the IDL contact wasn't closed before because of the code 51 and because you can't set base timing with it open. Keep in mind the TPS has two distinct and separate internal parts and must be treated as such...

I doubt your problem is O2 sensor related because: 1) The engine will run only slightly rich with it bad or disconnected, at about a lambda of .95 2) The sensor is monitored 3 different ways and can set 3 different codes, none of which you claim to have. But check it the way Grim pointed...

Find it odd you're getting no reponse? Try a manual search. Code 24 and 31 are both associated with the AFM. One is air temp and the other is airflow. Code 51 is normally associated with the TPS and is also associated with code 31. If I were you I'd test the AFM and check the TPS, for both...

Hmmm....this is all basic stuff. I suggest you read the manual. If you don't have one get one. A real one, not some crappy Haynes or Chilton. The manual will also tell you about the PCV system. Anyway, for compression testing you can either do a direct compression test or a leak down test...

Could be the CPS O ring, a common failure point.

Blowby is just what it says: Leakage of combustion gases past the rings or valves. In the case of rings these gases go into the crankcase where, if they're not removed, they'll pressurize the crankcase and lead to seals blowing out. Usually the dipstick is the first thing to vent this pressure...

If your dipstick is popping out you need to find out why. Sounds like your cranckcase isn't being ventilated. Put a condom or rubber glove over the dipstick tube and see if it inflates. If so forcing the dipstick to remain in will just blow out seals elsewhere. Check the PCV system first. If...

:biglaugh: Now *that's* funny. I couldn't make that kind of stuff up if I tried ;)

It's beautiful Jake. Reminds me of way back when I bought mine and how I was stuck on the dark blue. It was called Pearl Blue if I remember right. There was only one to be found in the Los Angeles area and it was way down in Long Beach. I went for the light blue instead of driving down all the...

They're getting $48 for those things these days? Yikes. What a scam those things are considering you can by the fluid for $7 and rig up the tester part for peanuts. I haven't used one in years but just follow the directions. I'm not a big fan of quick fixes but there's always this stuff. In...

Sounds like he's replacing only the mast, not the entire antenna. Shouldn't be any need to mess with wiring.

Mine came in at Long Beach. I'd post the sticker but I'm not sure it'd scan well. And yeah, my first year insurance was $2k/year for the turbo with zero claims or violations. I pay $120/year these days. The DMV tags are $45 with a lifetime handicap plate. It's no wonder I keep the thing.

Johnathan, it appears Nick's post went right over his head. At least he was smart enough to fix it. As long as people continue to think of the knock sensors as "dormant" back up devices and not an active part of the ESA system that they are they'll always be those who'll try and run without them.

No speedo = no speed sensor. No speed sensor = no cruise control. The speed sensor is also used by the EFI ecu in several ways. Better get it fixed pronto.

I'm the original owner of mine. Bought June 22, 1987 from the dealer in Upland Ca. The window sticker (I still have it) shows $25,235. Forget what I actually paid but I was later reimbursed in full as part of a legal action I brought against my employer. It's been a good car. Cheap to own, very...

I dunno how much of an exception I am Grim but as with anything the right gear, study, and practice helps. Understanding the fundementals also goes a long way. Anodizing is basically just dying the oxide layer. That said, I trashed my fair share of parts while learning and still mess up a few on...

Skip the how to part and just try anodizing or anodising. I'm afraid eletroplating (chrome or not) is a bit more complicated than what you're suggesting but yes, those are the very basics. And no, I don't do parts for others. I'm set up only for very small pieces. Anodizing gear takes up a lot...

It's not surprising replacing it didn't help as a lambda loop carries the least authority in an EFI system and has a very narrow control range to boot. What made you think the sensor was bad to begin with? Did you test it? Did you get any of the codes associated with the sensor or AFR? It's...

I know how. Been doing it for years. I can even do Type III. Not hard once you learn the techniques and invest in the gear. That said Google *is* your friend. Why would you risk getting misinformation about any subject (a common problem with all forums) when you could so easily get the facts?

Code 51 can be caused by three different things but it's usually the TPS. Keep in mind not all DTCs light the MIL. 51 is one of several codes that don't turn it on. In other words you can drive around forever with these codes set and never know you have a problem until you jumper the diagnostic...