Search results

I'm not doubting it...at least Jose is using a 0W-50 that will flow better than a 15W or 20W50 on engine start. But from what I've seen using controlled test criteria and engineering data...a multi-grade 50W oil is not optimum oil film thickness on engine bearings. Of course that depends on...

Mobile 1 did change a few month ago...changed the add pack as well. It's still an excellent oil, but from what I've been reading on it, they switched to a Group III base stock vs the POA base used previously. What's ironic is Exxon sued Castrol several years ago over the term "synthetic"...

That seems to be the consensus...at least for their top tier EP oil. Exxon is not saying, but various oil analysis is pointing at Group III for Mobile 1. Consider the German Castrol 0W30 (European Formula)...it's an excellent oil and not nearly as expensive as RP or Redline. A good filter...

Good call ;) A 0W30 or 5W30 will give you better flow at engine start.

That's good...don't do it. Cleaning an AFM w/ carb cleaner is one of the best ways I know to kill it. Test the AFM per the link above.

Mobile 1 is an excellent oil, but it's not a true synthetic. It's a Group III hydrocracked mineral oil. If I'm going to pay syn prices, I want a true syn oil. Castrol German 0W-30 and Royal Purple are a Group IV PAO base, Redline and VP Racing are a Group V ester base, Amsoil is a PAO/ester...

Only one thing causes this kind of damage...detonation. Likely a result of excessive dynamic compression in the combustion chamber...your combustion temps went through the roof. There's not a piston made that can take that kind of abuse.

The 340E is pretty much the same for the GE & GTE. The GE has a lower stall torque converter and a different ETC shift schedule.

Code 31 Troubleshoot: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&Page=57 Did you happen to clean your AFM (with electronics attached) recently with something like carb cleaner? Code 34 is fuel cut...you will hit it boosting between 10-12 psi on a stock AFM...

ATI dampner...don't know if they are still on sale. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32431&highlight=damper

I'm not doubting you at all...I'm trying to figure out if the one I have is some kind of after market/rebuilt pump. It too is marked Aisin. It was advertised as an OEM pump w/ stainless impeller...I'm looking for the receipt now.

Hmmm...the one I installed did have a SS impeller...I checked it with a magnet myself. It was an OEM pump...bought it online. Are there different versions of this pump available from the dealer?

Andy - No I'm not ;) You also have the knowledge, shop, and the tools (or access to them) to do a lot of things yourself...as do I. I do believe if you are going to take the time and make the effort to do something...do it right. My time has value...when I am going to do something major...

Here's the cheapest place I've found to buy a Fumoto: http://www.lubricationspecialist.com/index.php?cPath=12&html=fumoto.htm $24.95 w/ safety clip and shipping.

FYI - the stock stall speed on the turbo 340E is 2500 rpm: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=AT&Page=32 A 3000 rpm stall converter is not a huge increase...I have one and it is great for street use. You can hold the brake, rev the motor to 3000 rpm, and...

There's more to it when you select a type and size MHG. The thickness MHG, brand of piston, and boost impacts compression pressure in the cylinders. You need to realize what pistons you choose and the machine work on the head/block does. The stock piston size is 83mm...for each 0.020"...

JS - if you're going to take the head to the machine shop, have a valve job done while it's there...I'm not talking about major upgrade, just have the seats re-done (3 or 5 angle) and seals replaced. Have the guides and springs checked and replaced as necessary (probably all good...doesn't hurt...

:) That VP oil is good stuff...pure ester base...jeez, what more can you ask for. Good to hear it's working well for ya ;)

Got the filter head installed and running a PureOne at the moment...got about 700 miles on the filter. Figure I'll run it another 1500 miles or so and switch to the Trasko. I've noticed the tranny is shifting smoother...it's less abrupt with this modified valve body I've got. I plan on...

Using the spray on a composite HG is not a problem and can help fill in small imperfections. Assuming you did not deck the head/block, remove all old HG material. Make sure the HG is properly aligned. Just make sure you torque the ARP stud to spec (81 ft/lbs) using the TRSM pattern...