That blue color is on one of the rod pins correct?
Sounds like the heat annealed the steel and compromised the hardened bearing surface. The crank definitely needs to be turned...replaced if the damage is too severe. I'd take a close look at the rod and main bearing cap oil clearances here...
Sooo...now you're saying that not using hubcentric rings contributes to cracked sub-frames, and breaking trannys/differentials??? Just want to make sure...It was hard to read.
Where do you guys come up with the explanations you do for this stuff? It's sure as heck not based on the way a...
Hmmm...5 lugs torqued to 80 ft/lbs on studs fitted into a steel hub. And that's not going to carry the weight of the car? You mean that thin little circle of metal (usually aluminum) is actually carrying the weight of the car?
Sorry man, but this defies common sense...not to mention...
The Lex AFM allows 25% more airflow to bypass the sensor...it actually raises fuel cut as a result. It "fools" the ECU in to seeing less airflow than is actually occurring. Fuel cut is raised to the 16-18 psi level as seen on the boost (aftermarket) gauge.
When you raise the airflow like...
Here is the specs on the crank...this will tell you if it's worth turning or not. Note, the amount of material that can be removed is small..as previously noted, a machinist should be able to tell you based on these specs...
Ok - First of all, oil pressure will not cause the motor to stall. There are several things that can cause the motor to stall...pull the ECU codes before you do anything else. This page in the TRSM tells you how:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&Page=23...
No offense, but that is flat incorrect concerning oil viscosity ;)
A 5W-30 is not thin as compared to 10W-30...at operating temps, the viscosity is the same assuming the same manufacturer, syn vs. mineral, and basestock. Let's take Valvoline for example...Durablend, a Group III basestock...
Chris is correct. To install a MHG, machine work to the head/block deck to a very smooth RA is required. There's more detail involved...Chris gave you the Cliff's Notes version. A properly installed MHG will allow you to run boost over 20 psi (w/ other supporting mods). IMO, if you pull the...
Look at this - the VSV allows vac to the modulator depending on temperature, power on:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EC&Page=16
And this - test the VSV power on/off:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EC&Page=18
Keep in mind the stock crank will have to be balanced and all the journals turned (if req) to hold that kind of power. The journals will have also to be in TSRM spec.
I'd just get the stock gasket, use some copper spray, stick the gasket on the EGR plate and call it a day. You're gonna have enough trouble getting those bolt holes to line up blind...you don't need any FIPG helping the EGR plate to slide around. Plus, I'm not so sure I'd want any FIPG getting...
You're using ARP studs? The torque spec is 81 ft/lbs using moly for lube....105 ft/lbs using 30W oil as lube.
You used a stock HG...a Toyota or aftermarket?
Want to confirm a couple of things:
- All the old HG was completely removed
- The HG lined up with the two pins on the front/rear...
I would love to have one of those tools...they're just so difficult to find. Can't get much smoother than the surface that tool produces.
When to re-torque is really technique...talking to ARP, after 5 full heat cycles is appropriate. A lot of folks say that on studs it's not required, but...
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