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It's a TI-10S for the stock location. Buy a few extra filter elements with it. Use the 1st element for 3-4000 miles and swap ...that will filter most of the stuff your stock filter has missed that's still floating around in the system.. After that, the filter is suppose to be good for 10K...

Per the TRSM: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&Page=73

The Trasko is actually a hybrid filter. Above 8-16 psi of oil pressure, the Trasko directs flow through the filter element. Unlike a standard filter, most of the oil is by passed around the filter element itself. Over time the oil is filtered down to the <1 micron level....the media mesh in...

I like the PureOne due to it's filtration ability...fine media with plenty of sq inch to do an excellent job. The Wix is not quite as good media wise (almost though) and it's by-pass valve design is at the filter opening...this will stop the oil from entering the filter if it should go into...

Look at post #7 and #10 in this thread ;)

Lets think about this for a moment. What's the purpose of an oil filter...to filter the oil of course ;) Oil is routed from the outside of the filter element to the interior of the filter to the motor. It must pass through the filter pleats, unless the pressure inside the oil filter...

:gaybar: When the security system cuts on, the horn will sound and headlights come up flashing. The car will not start...it looks like you have power, but it will not turn over. No starter, no click, nothing. You can try shutting the door and turn the key to unlock from the outside...that...

That pic says it all ;) The "sensor" at the top (not labeled) is the CSI time switch. The ECU does get a signal from the oil pressure sensor...it's used to control the ISC mode. You will need to use an alternate location for an aftermarket oil sensor.

LOL :biglaugh: Good to see you around here JJ. Here's a link to a guy who took a bunch of different types of filters apart and he ID's the manufacturer for each: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html JJ is absolutely correct...guys should learn the basics on oil and go...

The German Castrol? It's at Autozone...it's marked "European Formula" and says "Made in Germany" on the back. BTW - it's the only pure syn that Castrol sells in the US that I know of...the other "synthetic" oils in the SynTec line are Grp III Hydrocracked base stock.

Using the spray on an OEM gasket is fine, or a used MHG just so long you remove the original Viton coating. Don't use any spray on a new MHG. Read this and you'll see why I say that: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29335

Toyota filters are middle of the road....the interior of the filter resembles a standard Purolater filter. The testing I've seen on them varies from inferior to good concerning filtration ability...nothing to call home about. The gasket that seals the filter to the housing is a rounded...

Justin - the Mobile 1 5W-30 will be just fine...in fact you can run it all year round in your new motor. Just check to make sure you are getting pressure in the TRSM spec at idle and 3000 rpm at operating temp. Don't be tempted to run a ?W-50 oil...ever. Actually a ?W-40 is a bit thick for a...

You can believe whatever you want...you can disagree all you want. How about backing it up slick? Hubcentric rings are designed to center the wheel on the hub...do a Google search and every rim manafacturer uses hubcentric rings to make up the over bore spacing on their wheels. This is so...

That's perfect ;) Now, find out what weight oil the place you used to change it put in...use that weight. The only thing you might consider is going to a 5W on the 1st number. And I would use a Wix, PureOne, or NAPA Gold (made by Wix) filter. Do it on the next change.

What's your oil pressure at 3000 rpm?

Wow...it had to get pretty hot to do that. Find a good machinist, have the crank closely inspected and point that out. I'm not too sure I'd want to use that crank :icon_conf

The intake manifolds will swap...you will have to cut the retaining pin off the brake booster fitting to make it point to the rear of the car. The EGR fitting mounting holes are all there, it is blocked off with a plate. Of course you will need a USDM EGR valve to mount to the manifold and head.

Allowable play in the upper/lower ball joints: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FA&Page=21

You really don't know what oil you're using or the filter do you? As long as you're keeping it changed, that's really not that big a deal. Unless, you're using an oil that's too high a weight for cold weather. You really need to pay attention on oil weight, it does have an impact on pressure...