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There's also a check valve under the ISC in the intake manifold flange...looks like a little mag wheel. If that is carbon fouled/blocked up, it will cause problems idling.

Pull the HCV out and take a look at it when you manually move it. Does the valve open? Apply vac to the diaphram actuator and see if that works too.

Since you could push up the actuator bar on the Heater Control Valve and get heat before, I would say it's the control valve itself. Take a look at the diagram...the vac supply line goes to the outer nipple on the VSV, the line to the HCV goes to the inner nipple. You do want to check the vac...

Here's some more info for ya: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=167 Sorry, it's been killing me since I saw the thread title :naughty:

By the part in her hair? :biglaugh: (Glad the OP's question was already answered)

The site lists the NGK's available...do you want copper or iridium? You need to go by the BCPR #....6 is standard, 5 is one step hotter, 7 is one step colder. BTW - Google is your friend ;) The NGK 3330 is a BCPR7ES...you don't have to buy from SupraSport...in fact they are cheaper elsewhere.

Jen - Based on your previous thread and vids, I'm 99% sure you have a bad rod bearing (rod knock). If you contine to run the car, it will get worse...you will score the crank pin to the point it will no longer be usable....if you haven't already. The motor is a grenade with the pin pulled ;)...

Make sure you do this at minimum...you want to coat the metal before wrapping to provide a barrier for moisture. These type wraps can trap moisture between the wrap and manifold...add heat and you have the perfect environment for rapid oxidation (i.e. rust). If the metal is stainless steel...

Yeah...shipping is rather prohibitive to Canada, considering the size/weight of the parts we're talking about. I would definitively talk to the guy you choose about coating the inside. If a ceramic is used, I certainly hope they cure it at that temp. I'll have to think on that one. The...

The ceramic coated exhaust manifolds I've seen crack was due to a poor coating job on the inside (or not coating the inside at all). It also depends on the manifold...tube type turbo manifolds will crack at the welds, inside the bends, or turbo flange. There are 2 different type stock...

Dallas - It's likely not the oil pump...if anything, maybe a little bit of wear on the bearings. You could check the bearing clearances with a plasti gauge for peace of mind (assuming you're pulling the motor). If you want a little more pressure (and really, yours isn't bad), shim the relief...

Chriso - That would be me ;) That link you posted looks like a black ceramic...the temperature drops are about the same as I have seen on exhaust parts. Black is more effective at cutting radiated heat...about 10-20 deg better. I have done black, but it's more expensive than the...

Sawbladz - The ceramics I have experience with (a 2000 deg rated) will turn a titanium gray. That is due to the content of the formula...it uses titanium in a ceramic matrix for the thermal properties. That is a problem with polishing and real chrome as well....polish will turn dull quickly...

Yeah, well I'm one of those "old guys" and I've never called you or anyone else an idiot here. The people that fit that category have no problem proving it their self ;) Don't have anything to prove to you or anyone else...I'll be happy never to help you or your CA gang again. You...

What you're doing is taking the ability of the ECU to adjust mixture away by disconnecting it from the ECU...it goes to a fixed value. Disconnecting the booster line to the intake manifold creates a large vacuum leak, inducing unmetered air into the intake causing it to go lean. Lean = higher...

If you're running rich at idle, this will make the motor dying problem you're having with the SSQV worse.

Yes...it will take a week or so driving every day to re-learn.

Yep...should do the same for the SSQV. JAV is correct, you could use a stock valve in the stock location to recirculate and correct the problem.

If your SSQV is vented to the atmosphere, the ECU causes an over rich condition and the car will die. You can try a ECU re-set and let it "re-learn" (it will still do it at 1st) or use a recirculation fitting on it. If you do the ECU re-set, it will still die on occasion.

My Lex/550 set-up seems to run best at 25-27 psi vac on.