Search results

Yes...as you add power, vac reduces and turns to pressure under boost ;) Can't find the ratio for the stock FPR...the Aeromotive raises pressure 1:1 to boost.

Stock bore = 83mm Stroke = 91mm Displacement = 2954cc EV = VE = Volumetric Efficiency Like Doward said, 90% is a good number to use for the 7M. Pressure ratio is expressed: PR = Pa + Po / Pa Pa = inlet (ambient) pressure Po = outlet pressure The 14.7 is...

Yeah...John, JW, JDub, hey sh**head...LOL, I answer to all the above ;) The equations are not that tough...stare at them for a bit and the way you plot on the map. It is the best way to get you to the set-up you want. Once you know, you build from there ;)

That's dead on ;) Here's an example of what Doward is talking about...different motor, but same idea. Shows it plotted on different maps and why/why not the turbo is optium for the motor...

The map will tell the tale ;) Even at 75 lbs/min...that is max flow. You won't be running it at that very often. Plus, exceeding critical velocity by a small amount is not a huge deal...you will have an increase in pressure as a result, but it shouldn't hurt you as long as it's not...

Yeah...just re-read the thread...I actually said 930 CFM. Looks like I used a density of 12.417...dry air at 0 deg C. The 14.472 number I posted above is more accurate for actual conditions. The premise doesn't change...Mike needed bigger pipes and a bigger IC inlet/outlet. That does make me...

1lb/min = 14.472 cfm ;)

Well...like clatter ;) Kinda like running a board across a bunch of bricks all lined up...a mechanical shudder. It's most noticeable in a turn when the LSD is cold.

Well...not my 1st choice on oil, but should work. You def want to get the oil level up to the fill hole though. If you're getting clatter, add more of the additive.

What oil & additive did you use?

^^^ I agree...I was wondering when someone knowledgeable would speak up. Didn't say anything since I am the main protagonist in this thread. This sounds an awful lot like a Bi-Tron testimonial to me. Any word on the analysis?

The '90 Turbo has a 3.73 LSD. Ford 75W-90 LSD oil is good. You will also need the Ford frictrion modifier; start out with about 1/2 an oz...you may have to add more later if you get clatter. When you drain the LSD, remove the fill plug 1st. If you want to use a synthetic LSD oil...

If you're thinking about changing the LSD oil, make very sure you take the fill plug out 1st. BTW, the Ford 75W-90 LSD oil and Ford friction modifier works well...only use about 1/2 oz of the friction modifier to start with. If you get clatter, add a bit more till it stops.

I'm with JJ...I'm betting on a vac or air leak. Could also be the throttle body not closing as previously posted....check the simple things first. I'd focus on the ISC next too. Like I said...it's very unlikely it's the cold start injector because of the way it gets power. To check...

Thanks Clip...a little follow up on this: The CSIT and the injector both receive power (+12V) from the same source as the starter. It is highly unlikely the CSI will function electrically once the car is started...there would have to be a short providing +12V to the injector. The only other...

Yeah...obviously a Nissan "paid spokesman". I obliterated a 300ZX two weeks ago...wasn't even a contest ;)

High idle can have one (or more) causes. Check for codes 1st...some do not illuminate the check engine light. - Check for vacuum leaks and air leaks in the accordion hose. - Check that the throttle body plate physically closes all the way...that there's no build-up stopping it from closing...

Here you go:

There are the same number of screws as holes on the covers. Bet that's where the "J" tube fitting goes ;) Big banjo fitting...it's the return from the oil cooler. Don't know...need a pic of this one.

It's not sheet metal...it's stainless steel on the Ansin pump. That's one reason it's more expensive. The cast impeller looks like mild steel...it will rust...the stainless impeller will not.