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You may still have to go with 0.25 undersize bearings, depending on the condition of your block/main caps. The machinist can tell you the bearing size needed. The good thing about using a line hone to get the clearance is it aligns the mains perfectly...on a high HP motor, you want that...

Use the Toyota gasket...it's was revised a while ago. It's a multi-layer steel type, much better than what you will get aftermarket.

The diameter of the pulley shaft iirc.

Also keep in mind that the only reason I'm telling you to do it this way is due to the very small change in gap needed. You want to reduce the gap by 0.04mm...that is 0.0016". Not very much. If the machinist determines that the line hone alone will leave too much of a side gap, you can...

I thought it meant the blinker fluid was low :icon_conf :biggrinbo

Heehee...you're thinking too much. j/k ;) You are dealing with a circle (crank journal) inside another circle (block/main caps). Including the bearing, there is a 0.07mm difference in size (the gap). If you remove material from the main cap where it bolts on to the block, the outside circle...

A boost leak...check your hoses and clamps. Especially the one that attaches the 3000 pipe to the throttle body.

Standard size ;) I assume you already have new std size bearings. Think about it...a small amount of material is removed from the caps where they mate to the block. The problem is it's no longer a perfect circle. It's line honed to bring it back to that circle. If you provide the caps...

I wouldn't do anything to the crank journals...the surface hardness is not that thick. 0.07mm is the max clearance. Have the machinist resize the main caps and line hone to standard size. If you are using ARP main bolts, he will need to torque them to ARP spec as part of this work. One...

What kind of plugs are you using and what wires? Have you checked the timing?

Got a PLX M300 myself...good basic unit. It does provide a narrow band output if you want to eliminate the stock O2 and a wideband output for use with a stand alone EMS.

Yep ;)

It's a 100 amp alternator...and it is bigger than a stock Supra alternator.

Yeah makes you wonder what an engineer is thinking sometimes ;) Here's a pic for the placement of the sealant on the cover...only shows one side, but you get the idea. http://gallery.sanitylapse.com/v/supra/displayimage.php?album=random&cat=9&pos=-2109

Yeah...I would do that. Changing the rod bearings is a big job...if it's the valve clearances, that just might fix it and save you the grief.

Did you do the clearances yourself? A little history on that may be useful. Also, what kind of oil are you using...brand and grade?

If it was the rod bearings, there should have been a noticeable change in the sound. Before you do that, have you checked the valve clearances?

And you went back to correct what you said about the ARP specs...that goes a long way with me ;)

The banjo fitting is dealer only...Champion Toyota will give you a good price. Yep on the RTV...if you used the cork gasket for the oil pan, take it off. I used Permatex "The Right Stuff" for the oil pan sealant...worked good. The TRSM calls for Toyota FIPG....what I used is a good...

Ok...the new ARP spec for the studs was news to me. I wonder if they changed the bolt spec as well? Since you have not heat cycled the motor and have placed the dowels, here's a few things to consider: - The front timing plate needs to be machined as to be at or slightly below the block...