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^ No kidding. If he put some thought into this simple part he might find out why it keeps failing when it shouldn't.

^ Damn. You may not understand some things but your clarity of thought is impeccable. Common sense at it's finest ;)

http://tinyurl.com/yyasp3

The slaying never ends...

Indeed. I've run a MG bypass for years. I change the roll every 5K miles and add a quart to replace the oil lost. The sump gets changed every 15-20K miles or one year, whichever comes first. Oil analysis was used to arrive at this regime. I refer you to this well done study...

Needlessly changed means there's usually nothing wrong with the ones that get replaced. It happens for two reasons: 1) People blame them for all sorts of problems when they can't possibly be at fault. Time and again I see this. It stems from not understanding how EFI works in general and this...

You're forgetting how the machine relies on the interpretation skills of it's operator. Don't worry about it. Good luck with the job. Just remember down the road that you asked for it...

I've taken so many I've lost count, the last one about a year ago. Same with shrink tests and backgrounds. My advice is to relax and don't try to BS them.

10-11 is fine as long as it's not sustained ie; it only happens at WOT. Catalyst temps are not static and always elevate after a short exposure to high HC levels. I won't bore you with the details but it's designed to handle such excursions both in temp and emissions control. After all, the...

Not that it's important but hydrogen sulfide is responsible for that smell, not sulfur dioxide. In fairness you're far from the first person to make the mistake.

Define rich. Moderately rich mixtures will not overheat a catalyst because the O2 content is very low under such conditions. An exhaust stream high in HC is a totally different story. Go rich to the point the engine is into rich misfire and you'll toast the cat. Note the words "unburned fuel" in...

There is a phrase "most owners wouldn't know the engine was running bad if it bit them on the ass" for a reason too...

That's because you're a idiot savant ;)

I was waiting for someone to point that out. It' amazing what reading the book will tell you...

http://tinyurl.com/hkox ;)

You said you have spark. If you have spark, fuel, correct timing and compression it will start. Find out which is missing. It's as simple as that. 1) Yes, the dead car's battery light will be on, at least until the engine starts. 2) Shouldn't, but you can always pull a couple to check...

Yeah, do that because this: doesn't make a whole lot of sense.

The guy claims to be a mechanic too. That's slaying material right there ;)

I'm only saying the engine should start with the AFM unplugged. In your case it might not because you have a code 51 but again, that won't be an issue if the AFM is plugged in. It's still going to effect your idle and timing though so you should fix it. Cold starts are handled by the cold start...

^ He gets the cupie doll...