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That'd be the best plan of attack. CPT must also be tied into +B. The ECU keeps the EFI main relay (and thus +B) alive for a few seconds after the key is switched off so it can home the ISCV which is also powered by +B. The ECU then commits suicide by dropping the relay out. Expect to see...

FOD is bad ;) I'd get a new wheel. It's not so much a balance issue as a stress riser issue.

I keep dye in every system at all times and have found the oil, coolant, and AC dyes Auto Zone sells to be about the best. I forget the maker's name but it's on the package. Spectroline (Tracer Products) stuff is of course also good. Neither require black light or the glasses but they're nice to...

No doubt. The 7M adapter harness for my factory TCCS tester/simulator was so eye watering expensive from them I ended up having to make one on my own.

An article some may find interesting for whatever reason. I make no judgment about it's accuracy other than noting the comment about EGR : http://tinyurl.com/2d636v

Hmm....that is odd. If +B is always on that means (assuming stock wiring) the main EFI relay is closed. That shouldn't happen unless the key is on. +B is also found on the diag block. It's the terminal used to jumper the fuel pump. If you get power there to ground with the key off something...

You're thinking of BATT. It's hot all the time for keep alive purposes. +B and +B1 (connected together at the ECU) are switched by the EFI Main Relay. They're what power the ECU up when the key comes on. You can use that line, M-Rel, IGSW (ignition switch), IG1 or IG2. Lots of ways to get...

Lol. The "pipe" in question is called EMT, for Electrical Metallic Tubing. Known among electricians as "thinwall" because it's strength is so much less than rigid conduit which is real pipe. While EMT is normally bent using a lightweight type aluminum bender different from the steel one used...

Ha! I was racking my brain trying to remember. It was you ;) That'll work. Didn't you have some sort of issue regarding a boot up delay or something? How did you resolve that?

For those who demand the best the Toyota Special Service Tool for checking codes is part number 09843-18020. SPX OTC will be happy to make this little jumper up for you. I can only imagine what it costs :)

If that's all you want just buy an aftermarket keyless entry box. They're cheap and most can be wired to arm/disarm the factory alarm.

If it were me I'd wire the pump and switches in. Since they connect directly to the CC box it's simple wiring. Otherwise I'd install a vacuum accumulator. Or accept what Dan said. Seems to work OK for him.

Lol. Not only do I own a manifold set but also a recovery machine and identifier. I also own 60 pounds of the stuff bought 8 years ago. It's beaten the NASDAQ and then some ;)

^ Exactly. People say they "checked" this or that all the time and it's right but we have no way of knowing just what that means, other than in my experience it usually means they did something wrong.

^ I dunno...which is why I didn't answer the question. I'm sure someone here can come up with the pin out though. Just tap into whatever wire is labeled OX, O2, etc.

Not the wire but the display itself. Some cheap ones have a low enough input impedance to load the sensor signal. I've seen it a few times. It's the same reason you need a high impedance voltmeter (more than 10 meg) to measure it. Fortunately 99% of cheap digital voltmeters these days make the...

^ That's seems sort of twisted being that it was the Montreal Protocol that started the entire thing ;)

"you need a wideband oxygen sensor" ;)

Battery volatge during cranking shouldn't drop below 10.5. 11 is typical. The ECU doesn't like to see less than 11 at the connector. True voltage drop testing is done under load using both meter probes on the same path but downstream of each other. An example would be between the battery...

A vacuum reservoir/accumulator should work. Would be far from the first car to have one. Piece of PVC pipe with end caps would do and fit right in with some of this gang. Remember the climate control dampers and wipers from the old days?