Nah, it's just a car these days. The love affair was pretty much over a long time ago. The actual plan is to drop it from a helo at an airshow. That way I can write it off. Wouldn't be the first time. Film at 11 ;)
Clean everything, check the covers for warping, and torque them with new gaskets to 25 inch/lbs after putting sealant on the head only where the manual specifies. Put the 3rd cover on *last*.
The 3rd cover provides the seal for the 14mm hex plugs. If yours is shot replace it. If you dump the...
1) There are special tools made for removing instrument needles. They look and work like....a fork.
2) What's your beef with the oil gage? The design is dictated by the ECU's need for a digital input and contrary to popular belief it's plenty good enough for what it needs to do.
3) TEMS...
You have an 87 right? I dunno what connector you've got there but it should be a black 14 pin one. Find the light blue wire with the red stripe (pin 10) and ground it. Also, do your four ways work?
What Grim said. Not that it helps you now but if possible always take the most difficult to remove fastener out first. If you think about it you'll see there are several reasons behind doing it.
Agree, at least about the NOx. Just because your mechanic stumbled the engine by cheating the system doesn't mean all of it is working. Put a vacuum gage in the line going to the valve. See the TSRM. Also post up the numbers for the second test. All of them.
Dub: HC is not an indicator of...
I kind of suspected fuel pressure. As I said in post #7 I was puzzled as to why he would install that pump in the first place and curious if it was running on 12 volts. Even more puzzling is why he would do it and not check pressure afterwards, or at least when he started having problems. Ah...
Well, I dunno if it's ideal or "worth it" but sure. I've done so on every vehicle I've ever owned. Never had a problem. As long as the bores aren't corroded or otherwise damaged (light damage can be honed out) they'll be fine. I only use OEM kits though.
Simple logic implies that since 2 is paired with 6 and 6 is working you either have a bad injector or bad wiring. Since 3 and 5 are paired and neither are working you either have two bad injectors, bad wiring, a bad resistor pack, or a blown driver in the ECU for that pair. I'd start with the pack.
I'm guessing it means there was a lot of varnish/deposits they had to remove and he wants to know what could have caused it. Since there are none that would render a head unusable it's fairly safe to assume he just sucks at structuring a sentence. Either that or some of you suck at figuring...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.