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Fixed ;) Go here: http://www.mcmaster.com/ They have lapping plates...search at the top left. And the diamond paste that makes short work of lapping a block that's been fine finished. The key to lapping is keeping the plate flat and using even strokes. Here's a .pdf of the pattern...

Cuel - Sorry man...I thought you were referring to the machine. ;) Yes, there are CBN (Cubic Boron Nitrate) end mills...they are almost as hard as PCD (Poly-Crystalline Diamond) and should produce a very fine finish. Typically you see a machine shop use carbide end mills.

A good air cooled type is better for your tranny. Mine likes the tranny fluid at 180 deg F...the best a radiator type can do is 190 degs (usually higher tranny fluid temps though).

Looks like he's trying to avoid the various eBay fees to me ;)

I would change the oil and filter again now that you've run fresh oil through the motor ;)

It's CNC and the cuts are measured in the # per inch...the more cuts per inch, the smoother the finish. There are diamond cutters available that produce a very fine finish cut vs the carbide fly cutters. Like Grim said, get a sample.

This statement makes me seriously wonder about reading comprehension among Mk III owners. :3d_frown: You DO NOT want to over torque ARP studs or bolts...ARP specifically says not to do this. Torque specs for ARP studs is 80 ft/lbs and bolts are 75 ft/lbs on an aluminum head...both specs...

NDC bearing will be fine.

Ok...one more time to back what quake is saying. If you install ANY MHG (HKS, Cometic, Titan, Greddy, etc), to do it correctly BOTH the head and block should be surfaced for the RA spec the manufacturer calls for. Doing JUST THE HEAD is a crap shoot...the MHG MAY or MAY NOT seal properly...

^^^ Yep! Exactly what I was thinking. I would flush the oil system and see what happens (after I replaced the water pump). You don't have a lot to lose.

Don't assume the "shop will know" ;) To install a MHG right, you have to deck the head AND block to a specific RA (smoothness) spec. ARP hardware has to be torqued to ARP spec (not stock Toyota). That's just a couple of things...there's more to it...suggest you read up on it here a bit and...

Balanced and out of round are two different things when you're talking about tires. But, you are correct...coming off the same car should not cause an issue this bad. Plus you have two new tires too.

Not true...dump the Haynes manual ;) http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FA&P=10 Pages FA-10 to FA-14 You will need to take the hubs to a shop with a press to remove/re-install. The back is in a different section in the TSRM (RA-9 to RA-13), but is the same in...

Never used it myself, so I can't really say ;)

The speed is actually more important...check the drive line bolts per above. Have you double checked the all the bolts on the coils/shocks? Bad wheel bearings can cause a vibration as well.

Chunks - I've used it...no problems ;)

Does it vary with rpm? At what speed is it most pronounced?

My Whiteline bars are on the way ;) Tim - Are you going to test both end link positions for stiffness?

Tell her it's a "lightening rod" :biglaugh:

And it's going to cost you ~ $200 at Jay Marks Toyota...more at the local dealer (unless you get a discount). If you are planning to get a one piece, take a look at the recent threads on that subject...you can get an aluminum shaft for $350 shipped from ShaftMasters. Take a look at this...