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I dunno what to say then mate. All that's needed to do anything you want is the TEWD for both cars. Good luck. I did the best I could because if I didn't make some effort with the OZ folks His Holiness over in Melbourne would put the bad mojo on me ;)

Sorry, got me there. If you're talking about a 7M harness the online TEWD identifies all the connectors by shape and color. After you figure the connector out it's a simple matter to use the schematic for wire colors...

That should work. Leave the AC amp wire hanging. As long as it still goes into the amp upstream of where it's dead ended AC operation won't be affected...

Green and brown is correct. Either you have a short/open in the wiring or the sensor is shorted/open. Put a meter across it. In order for the code to be cleared the signal must be between 100 mv and 4.8 volts...

Yep, what the Dubster said. It's just a three-way solenoid. Any three-way will work. Just be sure to plumb it right...

No problem. Someday when you hit it big get one of these: http://tinyurl.com/c4mevy Aviation engine analyzer. Monitors and graphically displays everything from oil pressure to individual cylinder EGTs. Programmable alarms, data logging, voice prompts, you name it. I actually know someone...

I thought you wanted both headlight and AC idle up? By plugged I assume you mean insulated if left floating. I would...

First, it'd be better to monitor the fans rather than temperature because temp actually needs to climb before you'll get an alarm. Using the stock AC over temp switch (Water Switch # 2 iirc) is simple. You tap the line where it comes in through the firewall and connect to one terminal of the...

Wire them right and the odds are they won't. That said there are lots of simple ways to sooth your nerves. For example you can monitor fan current or speed or use a temp alarm. I use the stock fan and still have an alarm. Very easy to do using the stock AC overtemp switch...

Works pretty good eh? ;)

Right. It's called residence time and is also important for airflow across a heat exchanger...

Yeah, ELS is what I was looking for. That's another dedicated idle up for electrical load. Try connecting the headlight (or defog) input there. For AC you can use the one from the amp instead of the clutch. Problem is I recall it as being active low (goes to ground instead of 12 volts) so you...

Click on that part number...

Not true. More is not better. In fact it can be detrimental...

Appears that mag clutch is an input also. I'd have to see the clutch relay to know for sure. Nor do I know if it's for idle up but I'll bet is is. Connect it so the input goes high when the clutch in energized. Can't see anything for headlight idle up but the photo is very fuzzy. Usually on ECUs...

I use a Magnefine because it mounts so nicely under the AFM but there are other options. Some people mount a small spin on up near the cooler but you may not have the room for that. http://tinyurl.com/dlxqxo

We have to be careful here because I don't know what you're looking at. I don't see a mag clutch input on the GE schematic. What pin is it? You can connect the headlight input to "LP"...

Fwiw those are inputs not outputs. Used on earlier ECUs for idle up...

jetjock/ Gary

What Ian said. The biggest killer of hydraulic systems is heat and contamination. Good cooling and a filter can make a difference as can synthetic fluid. After 22 years I have an original pump, rack, and hoses that say so...