I'm running 275/40/17 on a 9.5" +50mm on mine, as long as your offset is proper up front, it shouldn't cause any problems. I believe the magic number you're looking for there is something like +35 or +37.
As for the rear, a whole lot. I plan on running a 315/35/17 on my Mk4 TT's with an ~8mm...
Don't get me wrong, I really liked driving them, a buddy of mine sold his REALLY clean/tasteful 93 Prelude to buy a 95 240sx... I really liked that car. Key word being liked haha... Did you know, that under the right conditions, being a complete dumbass can make a 240sx two WHOLE feet shorter...
It's not the power you're amazed at, it's the lightness. ;)
I had an 89 XE about 5 years ago, before I got into Supras. Squirelly as all hell in stock form, either mine was just a POS or they really need some suspension and chassis work. Or maybe they're just supposed to go sideways any time...
http://www.jhotimports.com/
This is where I got my 1j/r154 from, and I couldn't have been happier. Only thing that didn't come with this setup was the hydrofan for whatever reason, but considering the shape of the thing upon teardown, I was hardly disappointed at all. Got it all sealed back up...
I'm running a PWR radiator and Mishimoto fan shroud/fans combo. The shroud and fans are fairly thin, which is good, since the PWR is probably the biggest radiator I've seen in a Mk3... As for control, it's just got a temp sensor with relay tapped into the water neck before the upper rad hose...
I'll toss my hat in with the above experiences. This is exactly why I'm ~15k in debt right now, all over a couple cars worth about half that. Don't tie yourself down with that man. Trust me, payments suck when the car you're making payments on blows up. ;)
It's definitely not rod knock, kinda a different sound, and completely different symptoms. Not to mention rod knock doesn't go away when the engine warms up. ;)
Thanks for the suggestion, although it would be hard to tell that you spun a bearing by checking the oil, you gotta pull the pan to do...
Interesting... so, thinking along the lines of the tensioner being the culprit, the belt should be a bit on the loose side if my tensioner is on it's way out, correct?
I think it was mostly their cars, yeah. Trucks not so bad I guess. I'm just rather irritated with my SS. It cost 3x what a cheap econo box GM does, and yet pretty much everything in the interior is the same cheap crap. Even the C5 Vettes had the same stuff, and they were 40k+. Sorry, don't mean...
I always thought the 1j idled kinda low on cold startup, personally. But then again, I've owned a lot of 4 cylinder cars. Mazdas in particular, they idle around 2k cold, which did kinda worry me, but I guess it works for them.
Perhaps there should just be a law that says "Don't buy GM vehicles manufactured after 1972 and before 2006"? My advice would be to take it to an impartial mechanic if you haven't already. I had a similar problem with a 2000 Miata I bought a few years back. Dealer said nobody in town would work...
Ahh, my idle control valve was sticking for the longest time, so my idle is kept steady at about 1000-1100 by cracking the throttle body open via a set screw on the cruise control bracket. Throttle response got a lot better when I did that too, no slack in the actual throttle bracket anymore...
Meth might explain it. You see abandoned storage units and rental places advertised in the paper all the time around here... Being that this town is probably the meth capital of the world, it kinda adds up, and goes along with the stupidity rampage too.
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