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You don't have an oil light. If your engine light is on, something else is wrong. Run a check of the diagnostic codes, and that will tell you what's going on. PS- You say your oil pressure is high- how high?

Fingers crossed here.

Looks great!

Looks awesome, and I agree that you're totally fine w/ composite HG. I ran mine w/ no problems in my 12psi engine.

Looks awesone- congrats- but.. PAINT THE IC BLACK. PS- Post up a few pics of the car outside- hood closed and completed. looking all sleeper. That's what I wanna see.

Wow- I never knew this thread existed. Of course, I've only been in the Off-topic lounge once in all these years. Here's me at Buffet(on right): Here's me...not...at buffet: It's wierd to put faces to all the names. Anyway, hello. :)

You're not talking about the BMW 635 with the big-ass wing, are you?

I'm Curious- It looks like the intercooler is plumbing it's output back towards the compressor side, although you have the FFIM. Couldn't you reduce the amount of plumbing/ bends by switching to a symmetrical intercooler?

Well, heat transfer on a 40 degree day is juuuuust a bit easier than on a 90 degree day. But hey- as long as your happy with your system's performance. Again- my oem-type rad was only a year old and it would overheat in the summer with a fan shround and no undercover. Switched to a larger...

Congrats man. I'd like to see some dyno results with that setup, as mine is quite similar.

Say- here's another way to look at the 180* Tstat idea: If your cooling system has little to no margin to keep down temps in anything other than low-stress driving conditions, you get a temp rise when you boost, right? OK, and let's say that's with the 192* Tstat. What does that mean is...

This story kinda reminds me of my MR2. Sit back and relax kids.... Once upon a time, my roomate, who was selling timeshares at that time, gets an offer to head down to and live in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico for 6 months, and sell down there. He decides to go, and so does his work buddy, who...

Ask the mods to move this to the build-up gallery, and good luck with the swap.

Well, It seems that the Haste model at least accepts OEM mounts, so that's nice. PS- If your cooling system truly has a safety margin, that would mean that your 'boost runs' wouldn't make the temp rise at all. Before I had my new rad, my car's temp would start creeping up in the summer...

I have a CSR aluminum rad, and It works great. It's shaped exactly like a stock unit, but is a 2 row unit made completely of aluminum, so it's a compromise between stock and high performance(~PWR) design. It's also at a middle price- I paid $230. If I had to buy off of Ebay, I'd prolly give the...

Or you could split the difference and pick up a set of Probe forged units. :naughty: BUT- if you're not looking for >400HP, I don't think you need them.

I agree. When you rev it up, do you hear a whistling/whining sound from the turbo? If a hose is semi-popped or popped off, the turbo tends to spin a bit faster.

Same with fan shrouds. I looked on Ebay and in the for sale section for a good used(~20 yr old) one, but no luck, except for one on E-gay going for $145! I ordered a brand new one from Jay Marks for $67! Waiting by the door for it to arrive.

Aha. And yes, as mentioned above, it shouldn't take more than an hour(in my experience) for the car to normalize.

LMAO! Yeah. I think we might have found part of the problem. Time your cams as per TSRM. Also, judging by video #3, I think I see another reason you have no power- You have NO GAS. http://s87.photobucket.com/albums/k134/erincantoo/?action=view&current=07-13-08a011.flv