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ps- I just noticed that you're using a bigger turbo. I'm on a stock CT(for now).

I think i've mentioned to you before that I have almost the exact same setup as you, right down to blow-thru mode and 560's. I would simply check for boost leaks, as that it the most common cause of FC. I have not pushed my boost past 16psi, but I have yet to hit FC at that level.

I think I read just recently that ferrea makes keepers// locks, and they claim you should use them specifically with their valves.

Do a leak down test. It might isolate the problem to a particular cylinder.

Got it. Out of curiosity, I'll email them about it.

Hey- you were totally right! http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/performanceparts/Toyota/Supra_MK3/Body/Front_Lip_Spoilers I don't really care so much about the ducting, I just want a new front lip, and everything from shineauto is too low for my taste. Thanks- looks like I'm saving my money for...

Am I correct in thinking that the JDM 89-92 lip came with small brake ducts? And if so, Does anyone know what direction I should look to for sourcing one? PS-! Does anyone have a pic of one? thanks.

Yeah- I think Driftmotion sells it for $36.

I assume we re all talking about the spherical bearing at the lower rearmost point on the hub. Can anyone tell me the secret to removing this bearing, preferably on the car? I tried using a 2 arm puller, but couldn't keep the puller stabilized. Do I need to remove the entire hub, and throw it on...

Yes.

Well, once you have the afpr in, I think you could probably get pretty close to ideal with your own tuning. I forgot that you have an AFR gauge, and that's your principal tuning indicator. Since I don't have one installed yet, I had to leave tuning to a qualified shop. :(

Yes- You shut off the motor, flip #4 switch to on, then dial them all to zero to begin with. However- it's pretty much a complete crapshoot without a dyno. I drive my car in WOT mode(no rpm mode tune) because I've modded so many things since my dyno session, I couldn't possibly set them right.

You posted this in the build up gallery. That means you now have to buy lots of expensive stuff, install it, and post pics so we can drool. PS- My windshield had the aforementioned rust too.

With dipswitch #4 in WOT tuning, your base, idle mid and WOT dials become rpm-specific set dials. Do you have a copy of the manual? It explains all this. You can get the manual online.

Someone WILL correct me if I'm wrong, but with an adjustable timing light, you set the advance to what you want(10 degrees), And time the cps so that the timing mark is on TDC.

For that build, get a used MAFT. It can be scaled to whatever injector size you throw in there. Plus you don't have to use a Lex AFM. Besides- you don't want to do a Lex without 550/ 560's.

You are running the exact setup I have- 560's in blow-thru. Do you have the HAC wire connected? I assume you made sure the GM MAF is connected to the harness. Dip switches: 1 off 2 off 3 on or off 4 off Dials: Aux 0 or 4 is good Base E Idle 0 Mid 0 WOT 0 (These will be adjusted later)

He wasn't a dealer, he just had it sitting around and didn't need it.

I read the wiki blurb that S.A. had posted on the messenger pidgeon....Wow. We americans killed it off in less than a hundred years- from 5+billion, to zero, by using it as meat for slaves or something. Wow. And yeah- I didn't need this one either, but I was drooling over it on Ebay. I;m going...

Yes, I am thinking of putting it behind glass. I don't know if the Ebay seller is on the forums, but let's just say that I got such a rediculously good deal on it, that after receiving it- I sent the guy MORE money, simply because it was a steal- and I appreciate the value of the part that much.