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The hardest part is placing the hub properly on the press. It's a somewhat odd, user-unfriendly shape, in regards to setting it up. If you have some proper press dies and some spacers to place underneath it, it makes it easier.

No talk of Spec. Is Spec sub-par to both of these? I was considering the Spec 2+. I want a street-friendly clutch that can handle 400-450.

Nice! I like this one: http://khaaan.com/

ARP studs have an internal hex, but are regular 12-point nuts. The hex's are to help in removal, as they should only be slightly beyond finger tight. No torx are used, so no special tools needed beyond a 12-pt socket(12mm, i believe). Good luck with it. I don't know if the zero psi reading in...

Not necessarily. Is the crack located in the material where two exhaust valve ports join? Better yet- take a pic.

Kinda like what I said, huh?

PS- Your car only has 79,000 miles? Nice.

If you are getting oil streaming back onto the cat, I also suggest you check the turbo's feed and return line gaskets. Mine was leaky, and sent oil all the way down the exhaust. Low oil pressure wouldn't be the result of a steady oil leak, unless you were actually LOW on oil. It is more likely...

What is your fuel pressure set at on the adjustable fuel pressure regulator that you didn't mention you had in the first six posts? Also, please update if you've: repaired the broken FPR vsv replaced the broken o2 sensor checked to see if the J-tube was drilled out If you need to test the cold...

Doh! two step 8's! To be honest, I myself did what you suggest, and got upgraded IC and piping before a bigger turbo. But my excuse is that I swapped my car to turbo, and never had the stock IC components. Plus I wanted a big blingy FMIC.

I believe all the 'grooves' on the cam surfaces is aluminum 'babbit'(?)material, and would come off with a scotchbrite pad- it's not actually grooves or blemishes in the cam material itself. Since you just ordered BC cams, I suggest you look at one of your stock cams and really inspect the...

The cover doesn't have to come off, but I like to have it off, since being even slightly misaligned, can cause the cps to jump back one tooth as you ease it in.

Nice. I'd imagine it'll be slightly louder than you might want, but no big deal. Like you said, you can add as resonator or muffler to the mid section later. I have a generic Apexi-knockoff fartcan out back, and it's quite tolerable with the silencer in, but I wanted to get rid of some of the...

so, WOTAM then. I didn't get it either.

What muffler did you buy? I plan on doing an electric cutout for the same reasons, paired with a Borla muffler and possibly a mid muffler as well. I want it real quiet for everyday driving, even at the expense of max power.

Why do you want an HKS headgasket "because you can reuse it"? You plan on blowing it? A metal head gasket is always a good idea, but plan on having both the head and the block surfaces decked to a smoother finish, or you may be reducing the reliability of the gasket. So, you plan to upgrade to...

If this frame brace will get rid of the wet noodle feel with the targa top off... why do you also need to sell a targa top brace?

wow. No Peak for me.

Why are people suggesting a standalone system for a 350hp goal? I could see a standalone, if the person wants to go much further in the future, but I wouldn't go standalone for under 400hp. I would say to upgrade in the following order, if 350 truly is your max desire: 1. ARP headstuds and...

If you own a Supra and work on it yourself, You MUST own a repair guide of some sort. Hayne's, Chilton's, or a Toyota TSRM. at the very least, you need to refer to the online TSRM. It will tell you how to adjust your ignition timing. The preferred choice for antifreeze/ coolant is Toyota...