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Well, the car may "look good" with the fogs only but it's illegal in most states. Not that I care, just saying. As for the mod not only is it overkill but it's electrically stupid. Next time you're really bored do a bit of circuit analysis and you'll see what I mean.

^ I'm assuming you mean having the fogs separate Nick. While I'll give you that this particular mod is atrocious. Anyone with a basic understanding of electricity would want to slap whomever came up with it.

Dunno what to say other than the wiring on your car has been hacked. Nothing comes in that spot from the factory. I used it for a Hobbs meter but normally it's empty. At least it was on my 87.

I looked at the photo. The only thing you appear to be missing is the ABS link. The space on the far left is supposed to be empty...

He should: 1) Put the system in diag mode. 2) Unplug the TPS. There should be a 51. 3) Short IDL and E2 on the connector. 51 should clear. 4) If it doesn't leave IDL and E2 shorted then start the engine and open the throttle. If the engine refuses to rev above 2000 rpm the wiring is good...

Sorry, I never read SF because it makes me nauseous but that section of the box is for fusible links. Sounds like you're missing one...

Someone is confused. 51 is caused by a *lack* of continuity between IDL and E2. If IDL and E2 are always connected together (IDL is always low) there can't be a 51. At least not one that's TPS related. Nor would the engine rev above 1500 rpm...

Your pix don't show but: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=18

Was there something about post #10 you didn't understand? Was it all Greek to you?

^ 11 is an interruption of ECU power. If other codes are set they'll be masked until 11 is cleared.

While that portion of your TPS may indeed be bad there is no failure mode of VTA or Vc that will cause code 51. Me thinks you're doing something wrong...

Based on his last thread I'd be a little nervous if I were him...

The last two what? hvyman: that test you linked to is the system amplifier for the climate control system, not the AC amplifier. You're far from the first to make this mistake though...

Sorry, just don't understand why people buy these cars and don't get a manual right off. It's worth every penny. Use the online one mkiiichip pointed you at and ask if you need more. I'll try to be kinder. Can't promise anything though ;)

In spite of that interesting logic I would look at the TPS...

Think how many service manuals he could buy for $2000...then he wouldn't have had to ask such a question.

THW is the dominant signal. Approx 100 C and higher. FPU is disabled 90-120 seconds after starting.

I don't think he's being either. It appears he is simply trying to understand the difference between what will work, what is correct, and whether the OP's problem is related to the matter. At least that's the way I see it...

Yep, at least that's the plastic version. Iirc I used 3/4" hose and molded it to fit...

Not hydraulic lifters. Might want to check/set the clearances...