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Find a better store or order a three wire online. The Internet is more than a global pornography network you know. Or use the one wire and resistor the heater circuit to avoid code 21...

PCM-wise it's used indirectly for idle speed control (don't worry about it), certain emissions functions, and ESA trimming. For what you're going to do with the car there won't be any consequences to not having it.

My condolences. Hope things are getting back to normal down there. Your problem is very likely something else but if the code comes back the conditions that set it are 1) short or open in VTA (less than 100 mv or greater then 4.8 volts) or 2) VTA exceeds 1.5 volts with IDL low (closed).

Yes, that's the main feed for the car. You can either run it back to the battery or connect at the starter. Just be sure to keep the link or use some other sort of over-current protection either at the starter or battery. I'd run to the battery and fuse it there but that's me. And do the ground...

Except for one little problem: He's right.

Yes, you can remove the bolts on the intake manifold, loosen the couping nut if you must, and slide something like a piece of sheet metal in there but the book has a positive test of the entire EGR system: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EC&P=13 As I said...

I was referring to idle speed, not quality, being wrong. EGR won't cause that symptom and even if it could testing it is much easier than a swap/trial and error approach. And there's zero evidence of lean misfire. NDIR analyzers don't lie. Especially the ones used in California. Me thinks you're...

Usually because people remove it. However not having the laminar flow screen is better than having a severely damaged one. Point is for the AFM's karman pillar to generate the cleanest street possible the airflow striking it must be laminar. Look here...

Yeah, that does look pretty good. Computes out to being about 1% rich though. You say it was sputtering during the test? Doesn't make sense...the numbers don't show any misfire. Also, fuel economy shouldn't be anywhere near that bad unless you've got a lead foot or something is dragging the car...

CO is perfect yet the fuel economy is 16 mpg? Was this a loaded mode ASM test? Post all the emission numbers including O2.

This is good advice. When the light comes on a code gets set. If that code is 31 the airflow signal is still faulty. What's so hard to understand about that?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=094

Try changing the main relay fuse...

Fascinating...

The starter will operate without the ECU even being in the car...

It's trying to tell you something...

What those guys said. Set #1 @ TDC, check damper for zero (if not at zero determine why), set cams, install belt. CPS per TSRM, warm up engine, short diag block, check MIL for no code 51, set ignition timing. Done...

Don't use the cams as a reference. Place the piston at TDC, check the pulley, and go from there...

Interesting. Rather than continue I'll simply point out the enormous irony to be found in the last line of your sig...

Not sure what you meant by "tandem" but the diag system always displays codes starting with the lowest number regardless of which order they were set. 21 is usually the O2 sensor heater or heater wiring but can be other things O2 related depending on model year. I'd check it before changing...