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You may have a bad resistor in the tach. Relatively easy to test and replace.

Buy a beater na supra for daily driving, and save the nice one for weekend drives, and check-out-my-glutes poses.

It has a slight amount of violet in the shade. Looks to me like Ford(Mazda) Royal sapphire metallic, from the late 80's/ early 90's. I painted my 280Z this color in 1990. Here's an example: Of course, The MkIV Supra, as well as a number of other manufacturers have similar colors; Porsche...

You guys didn't check that link very closely; 6.95 is for a pack of TWO. Now tell me it's not the place to shop for shims.

This is where i got mine, too.

So, are you leaking into cylinders 1,2,5 and 6? I'd have the cylinder head checked for straightness while it's off. Seems like there could be a chance that the head is bananna-shaped.

The vsv is under the lower intake manifold, You'll prolly need a mirror to see where it is. Plug it in. As for the other- it may be the abs sensor on the transmission, as mentioned. You'll find the other end near the top driver's side of the bellhousing.

Looking good.

Adjust the tps as per the tsrm, but I don't think its the problem. If you have an O2 sensor fault code, you'll be running too rich and have very little power. Use a multimeter to check continuity between the signal wires at the elbow, and the pin that goes into the ecu. You might have a break in...

The reason #5 and 6 exhaust ports are sooty is because your exhaust manifold was leaking there. Most likely, the rear studs are undertorqued due to softening of the aluminum around those studs. The rear cylinders being wet like that would cause a visible smoke to come from the exhaust.

How much was the wheel? Cause my knockoff was about $25 shipped(same hub). LOL

^ What he said. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=19

MVPmotorsports.com Driftmotion.com Horsepowerfreaks.com And like Hvyman said- the vendors section here has got many other vendors, some who carry lots of custom parts.

I'm guessing that the problem is in the dash wiring.

LOL. "frivolous" hood struts. My car currently looks like ass, but both the hood and the hatch have minty fresh struts. Didn't find it all that expensive. Got tired of getting hit in the head by both. The rear is a slight pain to replace, but the fronts literally take 3-5 minutes.

There is no "kit" to make 500 hp. There are some good recipies, though. You need to use the search button at the top right and search questions like "best gasket kit", "good pistons", or "what parts to use", or "What rods", etc... I will tell you that you can expect to need the following...

^What he said- Biggest no-start culprit is the crispy, 25+yr old wiring on top of the cps. Wiggle the wires, and try again.

I've modded about 8 of them, and I can't imagine that it would be too hard to find the short once you opened it up.

I believe that disconnecting the O2 signal will cause the engine to go to an over-rich mode and store a code, but I guess that could then allow you to tune it back to a leaner setting...?

Inner wire is the signal. Outer wire is just to shield it. Should be ok with just the inner wire reconnected.