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What kind of help? If you want to bring it all the way up to LI I can hardwire it for you...

Exactly what I was thinking.

Practice with it for a while. It does take a knack to make a good double flare.

Poop, sorry to hear it Grant.

Mike, looks great in there. Now, lets see what that baby can really do!

Agreed, mostly. Installed height is a critical factor in having proper valve spring seat pressure. This should be checked and shimmed if nessicary. Longer valves are heavier. This will require a heavier spring to maintain proper valve operation over a stock height valve for any given RPM...

Heh, you missed my point Adjuster! I meant that is a big reason why new cams are better than regrinds. They maintain the appropriate base circle hence no added valvetrain weight over factory installed cams...

Using the thickest available shims is counter to having good valvetrain performance. The same applies to lash caps and other methods used to take up the excess lash from regrinds. Lighter = better.

You guys with street cars will want to stick to cams that will fit without machining the head or converting to shim under or shimless buckets. Anything over about 270 duration or 9.5mm of lift is going to kill driveability, vacuum for the brakes etc...

Nice work Jeff! It is about time somebody stepped up to the plate on cams, is it Crower? Currently I have what I need but any future projects would definitely need a set, I'll take a set on speculation at that price.

I think the Moroso pan clears the A80 subframe but, I know at least one 2JZ around here that puts 1100+ to the rear wheels (thru a powerglide!) on a wet sump system with stock pan and has been on the same bottom end for years, even daily driven in nice weather...

Hrm, stock A80 chassis?

Nice that you can actually get a prefabricated dry sump pan for a 2JZ, not that you would need anyone to fabricate anything for you Ron! lol...

A friend of mine found exactly the same thing. Venom = crap used Venom = even crappier :nono:

Looks to be about .040". Enough room for some flush head phillips screws or something.

The little spring that pops the door open broke on mine. The temporary solution was to have someone pull on the door as I pulled the release. The permanent solution was a new gas door w/ spring.

Turn it up until you hit the cut, then turn it back down a little. It is probably pretty close at 12 psi anyway.

Most WRX owners laugh at people who think racing is from a highway roll. If you want to win from a dig (real race), some decent tires and boost just under fuel cut should reel him back in before the 1/4.

Nope, it was always 10. It is supposed to advance to 12 or a little better once you remove the jumper.

Will try to remember and check on that for you this weekend if possible. It isn't much.