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If you're not going to machine the block, an OEM HG is a good choice. I'd give it a couple coats of copper spray, let it tack up, and lay it down on the block. ARP studs are an excellent choice. Torque to ARP spec on the sheet that comes with them...use ARP moly lube and that spec (motor...

LOL...suffer from CRS myself ;) (who are you again?) If he replaced the internal bearing and seal, that is a very good deal!

Use caution using the Autolites, especially with aftermarket wires...they are 1/8" shorter than the JIC standard used on the 7M. You can get an idle misfire or fouling due to arcing. The NGK coppers are my choice ;)

Scott - Does he replace the internal seal and bearing? How about the gear?

Never assume...LOL. :) (you know the old saying!)

Try different plugs...Autolite 3923 are 1/8" shorter than spec plugs for the 7M. Give the NGK's a try. Do you have any ECU Codes? You need to get this fixed ;)

Code 43 is no starter signal to the ECU till 800 RPM...indicates a problem with the ignition switch or it's wiring. Pull the EFI fuse to reset the ECU and re-check the codes after you run it.

That rule applies if you are selling an item in the FS section or spamming it in the General forum. Neither applies in this case.

The water is a combustion by-product. It and the hydrocarbon by-products the motor produces is the whole point of the PCV system...they are drawn to the intake manifold and burned. Your catch can is condensing the water vapor...it's normal ;)

LOL...it's a 7M, just a different motor than the one in the car now. (sorry for the confusion)

One out of two isn't bad ;) (not bigger studs)

The grounds for the ECU are on the intake manifold. The fender point grounds the main relay. It's not a question of it making it run like that, it's a question of you getting stranded by the side of the road. Code 11 is a power interruption to the ECU...it's severe. That's why all other...

Code 11 will mask all other codes until it is fixed. Check your grounds at the intake manifold and the one behind the battery.

Yeah...those babies are a bit pricey. Got the ARP washers too. Next motor has a set of ARP studs for the exhaust ;) The castle locking nuts Toyota uses are not high on my list. I've seen them loosen more than once...almost sounds like yours is gripping the stud, causing the stud to...

^^^ Tis true...the years need to match. Or, get the correct gear and change it out.

The auto & manual LSD are the same for given years for turbo cars...earlier pre '89 cars had 3.91 ratios, '89 plus had 3.70 ratios. If you use the LSD that came with your car, your speedo should be accurate.

Grim - are you using the stock nuts? Were they previously used? I'm using ARP 12 pt nuts on stock studs...the head was helicoiled. A proper helicoil is stronger than the threads in aluminum...regardless of stud size. The studs should be seated finger tight against the head before the nut...

Not a Tech question...thread moved. gmann - pay attention where you post.

Not a tech question...thread moved. Kyo - pay attention where you post.

Neal - Just read the e-mail from my bud on his JDM ECU. It has been modified to remove the speed limiter. I have no idea (neither does he) exactly how, but it does not behave the same as you described. It looks like you are correct for the JDM ECUs.