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I see that on Ebay- the fake Bee-R's don't have the name or the logo on the top. It doesn't even seem to claim that it's a Bee-R. Just looks the same on the outside. Fake...

That was my original plan, but it seemed more complicated, creating a mount point on the underside of the turbo.

Test fitted my upper turbo stay:

I hear ya. Glad you got home safe, too.

Want to take some of the torque strain off of the exhaust manifold bolts. They're supporting a: 25lb manifold 20lb turbo 10lb downpipe Fwd weight/ strain of the exhaust system The stay will simply put a light upper tension on the turbo. Hopefully, it'll help with longevity.

Tired tonight. Adam came down from SC today, and we worked out asses off, removing all his suspension arm/ hub bushings. But it was worth it- we got them all out. Picked up my upper turbo stay from the fab shop. Looks like it will do what I need it to.

OK then. Comgrats.

sounds to me like the actual latch mechanism isn't locking onto the door. do as stated above, and spray a liberal amount of lube inside the mechanism inside the rear edge of the doors.

If its an original fuel filter, i would suggest changing it, but i don't think it has anything to do with a hard start issue. As for changing the csi, don't. Troubleshoot the car first, based on the TSRM.

Ok. Post a video of it running cold.

Me too, but i can not seem to fit my coolant bottle on my '88.

What will be the differences between "gen 1" and "gen 2"?

Any codes? Sorta sounds like the 1st attempt is building rail pressure. Don't know why it would be cold-related, though.

Congrats on hunting down the problem...finally. All's well that ends well.

Ran a new 4awg power line to the hatch area, and built a new hatch floor with better wood(Giggity).

Sorry man, I'm on the polar opposite side of town from you. Can you post a video?

Hmm. really not sure where things might have gone wrong. If the car was never really overheated, I don't see you warping the block surface at all. I would think that your recipe for repair was decent. Do you have any pics of the head's mating surface after the headwork was done?

So, while waiting for TIG work to get done, and parts to arrive, I played around with carpentry. Started building a new rear deck for the hatch area. I wanted to raise it a little bit, so that I'd have more room for the amplifier, capacitor and power distribution block. Also, because I am...

The driftmotion kit is supposed to drop right in, with all the intercooler piping included, as well as a blowoff valve. "supposed" to drop right in. I and Grandhavi(as well as others, I'm sure) have had fitment issues with the piping, and I've found that the IC interferes with the coolant...