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Aw snap.

Great job, man. On the MAFT, does it help your fuel cut if you set a frequency clamp? Mine didn't seem to make much difference.

Thanks for looking, Drogon. Yeah, It'll be awhile till I have the new rear carpet in place, plus I have to do a lot of wiring work in the hatch area, so I don't think I'll get the chance to take any in-place pics for a while yet.

Not much at all done lately, just built a sub box. Full writeup/ pics are in the audio section.

I figured that I'd post in here, since NOBODY ever does. I had begun to fiberglass a spare tire sub box, but decided against it at the last second. 1)- I want to carry a spare tire, and 2)- I was afraid that the sub would cause the rear deck to rattle if it was mounted below. Anyway- this is...

You wipe the bearing/ crank surfaces clean, place a piece of plastigauge across the crank journal, and torque the rod cap/ main cap down. You then remove the cap, and compare the width of the crushed plastigauge to the reference widths printed on the plastigauge sleeve. The fatter the line, the...

Lol. I'm passing two years on my build now. We have ALOT in common with our build sheets. What pistons did you put in it, and what engine management are you using? Looks great, btw.

Well, i thinks that port is at least close to the size ofthe stock port, so i think it could handle more than stock pressure, since many people go higher hp than stock, and retain the original bpv. Another option, would be to add a second port, and use double bpv's. But i think it would be...

I cut an inch of the crossover pipe, and put a new bead on it. Mine came withe the hks type mount. I bought it from Driftmotion. I highly doubt that they sell just that one pipe, but you could always just order an hks aluminum mount of Ebay, or wherever.

Well, i guess you need to port match the intake manifold to the new size of the TB, but that's not too bad.

Interested to see your results. I would be up for this service.

Yeah, I would lean towards clutch/ flywheel noise, or exhaust, if it's louder when in the car.

I don't believe that it does, but you can either drill and tap it in, or use a gte thermostat housing.

So...Where's the video?

Nice writeup. I had to mod my compressor outlet pipe by about 2", due to my aftermarket turbo and manifold placement. Also, I created some mounts on the top, going straight into the crashbar. But my lower mounts look a lot like yours. Also, I had to relocate my overflow bottle to...

I assume that they'd work in anything that takes top feed injectors with oem Denso-sized fuel rail openings. These are low impedance, like 87-88 turbo 440's.

Thanks, Bryan. And since you asked... Synapse R35V. Off with the HKS SSQV(Hong Kong Singapore Somewhat Similar-Quality Valve), on with the HKS adapter: R35, installed on the piping: Installed on the car: And a quick vid:

Thanks for the birthday wish. And thanks also for bumping my thread back from the dead! Didnt realized that its been a month and a half since i posted on it. Thats the problem when your funds and time gets diverted away from your Supra.

Another issue that can cause boost cut and a slower spool is boost or exhaust leak.

Good job, man. Let us know your experiences with it.