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Code 11 = Momentary power interuption to the ECU. This code will mask all other codes until it is corrected. Often it's the grounds that attach to the intake manifold.

It is too hot...the lack of a condenser fan is not helping you.

Dropping the pan is not that hard ;)

I don't have any pics, but I just tried the complete fluid change on a Cressida A340E about 6 montha ago. Still had hard shift and slip problems after 3 months of running the new ATF. Dropped the pan and the screen was clogged with all kind of crap...replaced it and flushed/changed the fluid...

Where did you get Red Line 5W-30 is thicker than GC? Did you read this? http://www.redlineoil.com/pdf/4.pdf Both the 0W-30 and 5W-30 are thinner oils than GC...the 5W-30 is actually thinner than the 0W-30 at ops temp. I see no justification to run Red Line based on cost...it's more...

I'd buy off on it if it were winter with a shimmed pump...but, it's June last I checked ;) Bernie - Don't forget the oil squirters...they open up at ~40 psi as well and serve as a "controlled leak" that bleeds off pressure. We need more info on how the OP has his oil system configured...

I'm wondering what would make the motor produce 65 psi oil pressure at idle and how it's being measured.

I'm a click from P to R kinda guy :D

If you installed a TPS and getting a code 51, you didn't adjust the TPS correctly. the only time the AC will cause a code 51 is when the AC button is depressed (and you don't have to have the AC installed). I'm betting you didn't adjust the TPS right ;) Check your CPS wiring, especially...

Code 52 will cause the ECU to significantly pull timing and the car will feel like you describe. It's usually a wiring problem...Shaeff sells a re-wire kit...shoot him a PM. Those leaks are not helping either ;)

Even better ;) You do need to run a thermostat in the circuit and dump the stock filter head.

Ok...my bad. Red Line 0W-40 is the identical viscosity (15.1 cst) at 100 deg C as the 5W-40 and only a bit thinner at the 40 deg C "cold" spec. No difference at ops temp and a lot thicker than GC or Amsoil AFL. http://www.redlineoil.com/pdf/4.pdf ZDDP is not going to help a 2J...if you...

FYI - if there is a pin hole in the rubber tube in the reservoir (above the coolant level) or a pin hole in the rubber tube going to the radiator, the radiator will suck air into the radiator instead of coolant. Not a good thing ;)

Ummm...code 51 is the TPS. No IDL signal to the ECU. Code 52 is the knock senors or the circuit. With it present the ECU pulls a significant amount of timing. This alone will cause the car to run like crap. Code 24 will cause the ECU to substitute a standard 20 deg C in the injector...

Hate to tell you this, but with those codes it can't possibly "run great". What else have you removed from the engine besides the EGR?

20 psi is plenty at idle. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=LU&P=4 You want to run a cooler...your 8 row is fine, but you want it thermostat controlled vs using the stock pressure based cooling circuit. Might want to read this...

How about answering my questions before you call it "settled"? :3d_frown: Red Line 5W-40 is significantly thicker than GC, both cold and at ops temp. Much more than the Amsoil AFL I suggested in response to your request. Plus, no one has even mentioned the 5W-40 version of Red Line. How did...

So I was kinda correct :D

It's a much thinner oil, both cold and at ops temp. It is ester based so it will handle high temps better without degradation. Overall an excellent oil...you can't get better than an ester. I have seen it cause higher wear metals in UOAs for the 1st fill or 2 until it removes all the oxides...

Good luck...the stock ECU uses all that "emissions stuff" (vac lines, sensors etc) to make the engine run. I foresee another "My engine runs like crap" thread in the near future.