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Holy crap Ian! You ran that sucker tight! As for the NE signal, it's super loose if it's even close to 1/8" (125 thou, specs are .008-.016). Also, since you are running a lower resistance pickup coil, it will produce less voltage with the same gap as compared to the original. Tighten up the...

Goodyear F1 GS-D3's FTW! Those tires were so sticky on my MR2, I just hope I can afford them again for my Supra! No direct Supra experience with them yet, but they will be going on my Supra.

No- the airgap is necessary so that the teeth on the shaft don't hit the coils and destroy themselves. The tighter the gap, the stronger the signal will be, but you need to leave space for thermal expansion. It's not common for the gap to change, but it's something that's worth checking, since...

Rob just got that turbo at the end of this driving season so that means he'll have it up and running this spring. Rob- I suggest you start figuring out what you're doing as far as engine control goes. I'd love to hear the plans you have for your computer, whether it be MAP-ECU, AEM, MoTeC...

You are right that the specs changed from year to year. It also depends on how warm the coils are; it changes the reading. Super cold=lower, hot=higher resistance (I would aim for 60-85 degrees F) The 87 tsrm I have says 140-180 ohms, and my 91 TSRM says 205-255, so I would suspect you have an...

IGT is not the tach driver, it's a coil trigger signal. If the car runs, the igniter is getting a good IGT. The wire you need to look at is IG- . It should be the black wire on the 6-pin (vehicle harness side) connector. That signal goes to the tachometer and the IG- terminal on the diagnostic...

If you have them, use your stock injectors and you should be fine as long as you run stock(ish) boost. Rob (92nsx) ran with BC 272's and other bolt-ons all summer with the stock computer, but he was also running a CT26. If you do not have stock injectors available, then I would suggest waiting...

First, the plugs are pipe thread, so you want them to be pretty snug in their holes, the threads seal better the tighter they get. But as for a spec, I never used a torque wrench on it. More of a "good feeling" tightness. As for the core plugs, if a block gets hot-tanked, the acids in the...

Very nice! I hope mine can do as well next year.

So after checking with the EPC, I've found that 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear share a common part number: 33368-35020 x3. 1st and 2nd share one too: 33367-35010 x2. Both of my guesses seem to be wrong. I would double-check with Aaron when you have a chance, he's really good about getting back to people.

It's been a while since I tore a manual apart, but I think that the lower one has a more equal tip for good 2-way (up&downshift) action, whereas the upper one has a one-sided action for one-way shift action. That said, I would think these 2 setups would make sense. First: 1st and 5th gear get...

1991- I was 6 and backing (neutral) my parent's Chevy Sprint into the ditch, using garden hoses to "Water tunnel" to China, and destroying stuff. Still do the last two from time to time, but now I can actually reach the pedals.

...6 cylinders is not enough, but a Toyota 1GZ engine scares you.

I vote standalone, I'm loving my AEM. But that's just me, lots of people have had great success with the other options, too.

...The words "stroked" and "Torque" make you feel queasy. Also... ...you are accused of having an SR20 under the hood

Some toyota vehicles have a larger sealing surface for the injector, which is what that other seal is for. NAPA doesn't make a 7MGTE kit, and a 4AFE kit, and a 3SGTE kit, etc. They make 1 kit that fits 90% of the vehicles. You need 1 o-ring, 1 spacer (touches rail), and 1 seat (touches head) for...

Ah, it'll happen. It's worth waiting for to have it done right the first time. Nice lookin car you've got there, Sir.

no the computer wants to see the EGR temp change when it wants EGR operation. It's like a double-check to make sure the EGR system is working.

I used this guide and did it to my car as we converted it to AEM, and it works great! Just be sure to go through the dwell timing wizard and select the 98+ 2JZGE setup. Pulls cleanly all the way to redline without any issues! EDIT: I used a IS300 DH61 ignitor.