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pressurized all the piping from the inlet to the turbo funny thing though I was driving today and it didnt seem to be jerking so I boosted in 4th and it ran fine hit 15psi went around the corner downshifted to 2nd and boosted all te way through 4th no jerking hit 15psi it seems the car has...

also have checked for codes no codes

I have double checked for a boost leak and canceled that out

yes I know the way it jerks though seems like a fuel cut and it does it around 2800 rpms that's why I don't think it's a boost leak like eiter a fuel cut spark or igniter proble. I was driving home left from a light and it did it for about 4 seconds in 2nd gear until I let off the gas just no...

guess I can always check again though

I'm not losing boost it hold the boost perfect if I can get it tere but the car just doesn't want to boost like when I add load it loses the spark or something idk like if I ease the boost so I can actually boost it holds fine but if I stomp it it doesn't even get to build boost it just loses...

also I just replaced the plugs gapped correctly and replaced the if wires

so I checked for a boost leak becuase under load I start losing power and th car jerks no matter what gear I'm in it jerks under load if I ease on the boost and rpms and don't floor it it doesn't do it as bad but if I stomp it it instantly drops all rpms and no boost and the car starts...

checked for leak no leak I don't think this is a leak issue when I stomp it it like loses all power but if I eas the boost on it doesn't do it so I'm wondering maybe my igniter or the coils

and depending on how much or how fast I give it gas effects his hard it jerks

just replaced a bad afm so the car runs much better now idles perfect timings perfect runs perfect but if I get past about 3 lbs of boost if I was it on or If I just stomp it I can't boost the car jerks really bad loses power same feeling as when you try to boost with a knock sensor code my...

so everytime I pull the efi fuse I'm going to have to go drive around for about an hour before it goes back to where it was

and to reset the ecu I wanna disconnect the betters right?

the car makes like this sputter sound like it's missing though when it's idling and idk if that's becuase the ecu hasn't learned yet or something

how exactly am I supposed to take a vf reading with te multimeter? I stuck it on the ones you said in the diag box but I get .03 volts and if I mess with the screw or the afpr it makes no difference am I doing something wrong?

I have the 57 trim walbro 255 hks fcd apexi afc neo not tuned though since I have out in the bigger injectors and lexus afm and 2.5 ic piping and an hks bov and yes it's real and a full 3 inch straight piped

well I'm saying its running rich based on the exhaust i messed with the fpr a little and have it at about 38-40 with the vacumm i was just assuming it was running rich becuase of the idle and exhaust and it has sort a sputter sound like a skip I guess while at idle

nope no wide band I won't be tuning it someone else is but I'm wondering what I should have it the fpr set at so it'll atleast idle well enough and not run to rich to get it to the shop to get it tuned

just got my lexus afm and 550s in and it's running rich. I set the fuel pressure to 28 with the vac hose off just wondering if I'm doing it wrong or have it to low. it's gonna be getting a tune this week. any suggestions on where I should set the screw on the afm and the fpr?

that video you posted on how stuff works..that guys shop sam mahdavi is literally half a mile from my house