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Yes there is a rubber cap just below the exhaust manifold towards the firewall. It gets brittle from the heat usally starts with a slow leak. Have you noticed any coolant under the car? Start up smoke that goes away usally is just moisture in the exhaust.

No carburetor to adjust. But maybe on the right track, could be a vacume leak, combination of brakes, power stearing could have stalled it.

Burp the system first, easy to do and keep an eye on the coolant level, check for leaks, then if you don't find were the coolant is going then do the other things mentioned, combustion test and cooling pressure check. That's what I do is the simple checks first but I'm cheap.

I think there is 3 wires that attach to the ground on the manifold.

I always cover mine, I know if I don't I might have problems, water can get in and pressure washing will force it in.

Have you checked the timing or the thermostat?

A knocking sound? I wouldn't drive it without finding out what it is. It could lead to more of a rebuild than you want. Can you isolate the noise? Can you hear it more from the bottom?

He said it was comming from the right valve cover.

Hard question without knowing the specs, IJ would probably know. You would proably have to gauge it with clay to see were it is now and determine how much more lift you could handle.

Why spend all that money on a downpayment, payments, extra insurance? Rebuild the Supra. For the money you would spend on the "stang" you could have a kick-ass Supra:naughty:

Just buy a $3.00 mop. It comes in handy for BHG's too.

Already a thread on here on that a couple of weeks ago. Pretty much nixxed that but there is alternate things to do. Just search.

The middle galley cover doesn't seal real well. They miss fire is because of water/oil in there and they aren't going to take the time to clean it out. Silicone as long as small bead shouldn't hurt. I don't hose my motor off that often just because of that reason.

Well that's some progess!!! Pictures say a "Thousand Words":biglaugh: Not pushing really, just alot of interest in the ITB from a few here. I can understand something as involved as this will take time.

Any news, progess, pics, dyno sheets?

Let him know that with a BHG it will require a complete tear down to check and probably replace the bearings at the very least, and with that many miles on it, it would lead to a complete Overhaul. Offer $1200 and see if that flys. It would cost quite a lot to take it to a shop have them rebuild it.

Driving like that knowing you have all those problems???? The more you drive it the more you will have to replace. Throw a rod and there goes most of the motor and you will be talking more than a rebuild.

Just do what cuel, me and others have said, try it the way it is, I'd check out everything, change out the pads and anything else you can afford to start with and learn with it the way it is. Brakes, springs and struts are a good place to start. Then do things as you go. You could run...

Thanks JJ. That's good info to know. What type of antifreeze would you recommend, and go with the 60-40 mix?

I've had mine on the track a few times. Just do the things like a set of Eibachs and struts, front strut brace. Brakes like they said are the downfall, I can't afford a BBKit, so I put some new rotors on, slotted help and a good set of pads. Helps quite a bit. As far as not keeping up with a lot...