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Yes and yes ;) 4" core and about as big as will fit in the front of a Mk3 without cutting the front off and starting from scratch. 300x600x100mm

arghhhh Post that again and I'll hurt you ;) The Getrag's are pretty damn indestructable as long as they have the correct Oil in them and don't have a bazillion miles on them or are driven by ham fisted rock apes.

I was under the impression that extended service intervals were the primary benefit of running a full synthetic oil? I go minmum 10,000 KM's between changes but do throw a couple of filters at it during that time with a top up as needed.

Please don't get all butt hurt and defensive but this is a perfect example of why if you don't actually know you shouldn't post in tech... The Cranks aren't "coated" with anything, they are however induction hardened at the factory and this process is about 15 thou deep so 10/10 on the Rod...

Vaginal Flatulance :p

No no no ;) The big deal is if you touch the tip it's very easily damaged. the ground strap is tough as any other plug! Tap em down carefully checking with the feeler gauge often not letting it get tight. If you do go too far use a pair of tiny pliers to straighten the ground without...

Yep if it turns easily the clutches are just about done, stock break away (ie: If you lock one side and put a torque wrench on the centre nut on the other side) is usually around the 45>50ft/lbs for most LSD's, in the past I've built my diffs to have 85>90 but they get a bit ugly to drive as...

Beadblast em gap em and put em back in?

Wheels shouldn't turn independently until you reach the breakaway torque of the diff. If they do it's either an open diff or a Torsen.

It would have had to be Lewis's scenario in that case Colin, had to have slipped sometime after being set correctly as it was running fine at the time, just found it while doing a service.

You might have a degree or so of rock at TDC but it's not going to affect timing that you'd notice, I'm talking about the damper being 20>30 or more degree's off, first noticed it once when I couldn't find the mark with the light till I got under the car ;)

Yep come across it quite a few times. Could only be a couple of degrees out, it would still run fine but wouldn't be "correct", trouble starts when you get away from stock settings/boost and wonder why it's gutless/pinging for no apparant reason. A dial indicator is the best way to check...

IF it was set BEFORE the damper slipped ;)

It was a bit tight to the Plastic headlight trim :( If I had to do it again I'd follow Gilsdorf's routing for the left side.

Not really Colin it just turns the inner hub, be a good idea to paint a line across the damper on installation then you could easily check it from time to time.

Always had a lean miss with mine if I went much under 15:1, might have been Cam timing though, used to run 22:1 on LPG before it did the same. edit

Dan speaks "VF" ;)