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Well its not like you can really see the block too much after everything is back on it anyway. I too have always liked the Blk/gld combo. In 83 I had a 78 T/A 6.6 black with the big gold bird on the hood. I loved that car!

among other things the fact that the firewall and everything in front of its gonna get cooked and possibly catch fire is reason enough not to do it. It doesnt even sound good...:3d_frown:

No, I ran all the wires to where they met in the middle roughtly, then dremeled out a notch for them to come through the back of the white plastice peice, zip tied everything up all nice and neat then installed them back in the car. The converter box I just let dangle behind the dash. I wanted...

It kinda depends on how thick the gunk is you are trying to remove. I have used just good old 409 and a toilet brush (good at getting behind brake lines and wire looms and stuff). I also really like the Simple Green Max http://www.simplegreen.com/products_ps_max.php Once I have degreased I try...

Define meaningful? :naughty: So I dont understand. You were putting new faces on so you took the old ones off? Are we talking about aftermarket faces over factory, cause you can just put them right over the top. Edit: nevermind just saw your build thread. Dude you made that far harder...

Based on the section its posted in Im guessing its NA.

if that isnt an oxymoron I dont know what is, lol. buying yourself a graduation gift seems a little....odd, but ok I'll Bite. Buy yourself a copy of "Studying for the SAT's" :naughty:

are you suggesting I get my gauges drunk?

huh, ok, I guess I was just too afraid to apply "firm but gentle pressure", lol.

Thats actually a tough call. The Honda is high milage and may or may not last you through college without some kind of repairs. The supra is worth more, and has a fresh engine that should take you through school and simply cost more in gas and maintenance. Keeping both is the worst of the 3...

give it to me, I have both the heart and the time :naughty:

I would take out the TEMS switches, put in the little stock cup that replaces it, and wire up an on off switch as an over-ride to a thermostatically controlled switch....but thats just me. Ohh and, didnt I read somwhere that the needles on the pre89 cluster dont come off like the later...

That is a double edged sword. One could just as easily make the arguement that the reader is just as responsible as the writer for making sure that communication takes place. Communication can be defined as an idea transmitted and recieved. Without either part communication breaks down...

I miss watching Ab Fab :( The couple of times Ive watched the office it was funny, but not enough to keep me coming back.

I saw that one, been up for a couple weeks. yeah for the price its not bad, if only it were an 89+. If he has reciepts for the repairs that would help. I wonder what they did with the HG when they rebuilt it. on the 2J swap, if it werre me I would rather get a 1JZGTE for the same money over...

thats wierd about the misboxed calipers, That has happened to me twice at autozone in the past. Motor looks great, car looks sweet. Gonna have to make the jump to getting it painted now that its "done" mechanically. Well, done until the next time you change your mind, lol.

DOH! (pun intended) Nice BOV man.

Alot of times the click no start problems can be traced down to a bad/corroded connection. Check your main grounds and the clean and reconnect the main supply line to the starter (I like to use a brass wire brush on die grinder or dremel). If that doesnt help check to make sure the smaller wire...

I dont have anything against PVP pipes per se but then again Im the guy who championed the use of cove base for a front lip. In my defence I couldnt justify spending more for something I saw as cosmetic only and there wasnt alot of options for pre89 lips at the time. In your case you have lots...

the follow up post is almost as funny. It SEEMS like an actual post asking for help but its really just a cleverly disguided complaint. :sarcasm: