It's a simple Tech section rule, if you don't know don't post or make shit up.... Andy should knopw better by now.
At a pinch you can carefully mark and linish the 1mm off as long as you don't go crazy and overheat the Seal.
Seriously dude do you think before you post this random crap?... :nono:
For the Spring to get anywhere near the Crank surface ALL of the Lip would need to be gone so the Rear Main would piss Oil everywhere..
It's just the Seal doing it's job and crap from the outside sticking to it and...
If you know someone with a Lathe have them take 1mm off the back of the steel part of the seal, this lets it go back further into the housing and puts the lip behind the 20 year old groove in the crank, often even a new seal will leak/seep becuase of the groove.
The same people that are interested in helping you will be able to answer all of the questions, there's no need to scatter it all over the forum it just makes it harder to get an overall view of the "problem"..
Just looked at the EPC the Lever looks like a mirror image of ours, as Poo said the cable has to be heaps longer though so you should be able to pick it up somewhere under the seat and hold some tension on it.
ewwww :nono:
Sounds like the Lever/cable layout is a little different RHD/LHD, almost certain I didn't have this sort of trouble getting mine to open, have you tried pulling on the outer cable a bit at the same time as pulling the lever with a Helper pushing the Door?
When I ran 1000cc RC in full sequential on the 7M I had to drop base fuel pressure to get enough pulse width for a stable idle (there's a fine line if you drop pressure too much the fuel doesn't atomise and you get crap idle again), so yes it can cause an issue with Large injectors down low.
You should be able to get to the cable with needle nose pliars at the Lever end as well, I'd resist levering the door as they're easily deformed/damaged :(
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