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No probs, by all means use the lift, we were working on the hoist so the pipe made it easier!

Yes you need to support it from above, Used a piece of pipe between the strut towers and a load binder ratchet on the weekend to drop a subframe here.

You can drop the Subframe, no gasket on a 7M use an RTV, I prefer 3bond 1207b.

Trust me it's worth having :)

;)

It's the Tech section that shit doesn't fly here... :nono: I did a full rebuild, the "issue" is going to be what are the piston to bore clearences after a cleanup hone, you might end up with something that sounds like a diesel.. :( My "guess" is an injector laid down as there was still...

We were discussing this engine at the weekend, seemingly the Oil pump hangs under the engine inside the pan at the front so this "might" be an issue in a Mk3?

ACL don't do a performance bearing for the M Engines, their standard bearing is ok for a stock rebuild I wouldn't use it for anything above that. Clevites are a lucky dip as to what's going to be in the box, used to be NDC's now I believe it's FedMogul's, I've used NDC's many times with good...

"Crambo" here in Aus is squeezing one into a Mk2, another bud has an engine just no plan to put it in a car, before I went LSx in my Mk3 I went and measured it up, with a bit of creative intake work it'll go into a Mk3, Management is going to be "interesting" I guess if it's ran Batch fired Fuel...

I've ran my Yellow down to the point it wouldn't light up the dash lights, it bounced back fine, I've retired it to the Tractor and it has no trouble starting it even after sitting for months on end (it's 7>8 years old now) Thanks for the heads up!

If you'd read the thread you'd know that his Cams aren't "stock" so no matter how "shallow" a socket he used it wasn't going to work... :nono: You can drop the "silly boy" condescending bullshit as well.

LMAO no need for a Hooker I'd settle for a Pizza ;) My 7M would only go so lean before getting a stumble then you had to feed it more throttle and that hurt economy... Ditto at idle it'll only go so lean before getting choppy, all depends on the individual combination.

LOL mine burnt right through the piston and under boost was pumping the pan into the PCV then filling the IC ;) I drove it the 50Km's home from the Dyno it was fine if you didn't boost, I slowed going through a shopping strip and nailed it for the James Bond Smoke screen effect :runaway...

Plasma ;) Notice how the wheel looks sandblasted? This was a split second on the dyno, yours looks like you were into it a bit longer!

Either a massive lean out and it's torched the aluminium to plasma or detonation and it's gone out the exhaust, check the turbine wheel if it has it'll show there.

Mine help helped save my life when I crashed the Z car, I had time to shut the batteries off before impact. You can just see it on the trans tunnel behind the Brake Balance and MBC dials.

This was the car's final spec before I swapped in a T04Z LS Chev, I sort of have a bit of a clue ;) Brand new GTE block 7M Niterided Lightened Crank +40 thou Triple coated JE Forged Pistons Pauter Rods ARP Main studs New GTE pump GrpA Magnesium Pan Canton Remote Filter...

All depends on which Kings you used, TriMetals are sort of ok.. BiMetals are a failure waiting to happen. I wouldn't use them in a lawnmower..

From memory I went through 3>4 MHG's over the 13 year lifespan of my 7M, lots of development work and upgrades.

When you pay $400 for a MHG it's hard to bin it each rebuild, no matter how big your parts budget is. Could probably have been reused more but I figured 4x was enough, ditto on the ARP fastners.