id rather fix it at the source, than drill holes and ruin my interior. i have NO leaks what so ever in the hatch area of my car. water just does not collect back there any more.
"fix" it however youd like, its your car.
i had that knob. hated it. i hate set screw shift knobs. do your self a favor and thread the stick for the stock, or whatever other shift knob you want.
vice grips. what you are trying to remove is a JDM oil/p sender (which wont work with your american oilp gauge. take vice grips and remove the sucker, then thread in your round (usdm) oilp sender.
yes, compressors that came on either NA or TURBO models will work viceversa.
furthermore, look around. there are plenty of people parting out mkiii supras that you can get your parts from.
to put it simply, fuel with a higher octane rating is harder to ignite. the AF mixture in the combustion chamber is compressed, heating the mix. eventually the spark plug will fire and the mixture will be ignited, producing the eventual power that will drive your rear wheels.
what can happen...
so in other words nocheez, it did not fix the problem. be glad it went away but dont be surprised if the problem returns. find the real cause of it next time.
without a core that 425 figure is a good price, however if that is the price WITH the core i dont know if it is worth it...
AND you can get your head done for much less than 400 if you know the right people.
i want to drive the fcking supraaa! im gonna have to take a few days off from work and stop drinking at night so i can wake up at a decent hour and just go all out and get the fucker running.
i know me and some guys will be going to the track SOON! i have to repair my BHG and replace the clutch then i should be ready. i cant wait to get the car to the track.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.