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38psi at idle with the vacuum line connected to the manifold would mean about 50psi without it connected. It should be much lower at idle then 38psi with vacuum. I think your fuel pressure is too high, which shows in your having to take out about 30% average with the AFC across the whole range...

That blows :( 255 width tires should be the minimum size on the back of any Supra with an lsd, imho.

The powerslot rotors are great, and they are plated so they will not rust. I have used the Axxis ultimate ceramic pads and installed them for customers and they are excellent.

:icon_lol:

It's the stock diaphragm that has been hardened by heat treating it, which increases the clamping force. Nothing wrong with that, the stock pressure plate itself is a good strong design.

I wish it was not that way too, but the guy is constantly belittling people and making blatantly rude comments. I don't know how he gets away with it. Anyone else would be kicked for the type of things he says to people. Just because someone doesn't do exactly what he says is no reason to tear...

Oh sure, now play the victim. :nono:

You are going to need a few adaptor fittings to make that afpr work, there's no way around it on a 7m or a 1jz. The stock fpr is screwed directly into the fuel rail, and it has straight metric threads with a crush washer or o-ring. The only way it could work is if you left the stock fpr in...

This is just not true. It's impossible that a few pounds lighter driveshaft make your turbo start to spool 1krpm higher.

JetJock came up with a new one today: He's talking about everyone on SupraMania, in case it needed any clarification. And here's what he thinks about me personally: What the hell does that even mean?!? :biglaugh: He complains about the student's spelling, but then makes nonsense...

Oh I sure hope so! I think I am going to put an HKS exhaust on it, there is something about the sound of the HKS mufflers that I just love. One of the things I am really looking forward to is hearing what it will sound like. I wonder if it will have a totally different sound then a normal 7m.

I think you are referring to the assembly lube they put on them? The crank has now been welded, and I'm hoping to get a call by Friday that it's done!

Good find!!!

I totally agree, the proper way to diagnose it is to jumper the fp to b+ in diagnostic connector. I was putting the cart before the horse by giving a fix without explaining how to figure out if it needs fixin' first.

Even if you find a used relay it's still 16+ years old, that's why if it is in question I just replace it with a Bosch, because the operation of that relay is critical. They get moisture inside (usually from pressure washing) and can become intermittent.

So you are saying that a one piece driveshaft alone added 1k rpm to the point at which you hit full boost? I REALLY find that hard to believe.

Ric would cheat and use 110 octane he got from a gas station and call it "pump gas", so this comparison could not be trusted. I read this whole thread, and I learned something valuable. Not about turbos, but the fact that Ric pisses just about everyone off, not just me.

Jay doesn't need a bigger turbo, he needs to pick up a can of race gas from the local speed shop and run more boost!

Something about ducks quacking.